Emmons-Winthrop Route Update 7/14

The Emmons-Winthrop and Camp Schurman have been seeing a good deal of traffic in the past week. Many parties have been successful on the route, with weather being the main factor preventing climbers from reaching the summit. Summer does seem to have arrived and with it some more stable and warm weather going forward. Good climbing conditions should continue on the Emmons for the up-coming weeks.

Recent track log (note the traverse to Liberty Saddle)

From Camp Schurman the route follows the previously blogged "standard" route up through the Corridor. With warm temps and thinning snow, beware of weak snow bridges just out of Camp Schurman through the lower Corridor. At the top of the Corridor, continue right through a small serac jumble and out into the large open slopes of the Alpine Meadow.  In the Meadow you will come upon several large crevasses to cross. In almost all cases the most prominent boot pack will take you to a impassable location or a sketchy crossing. A little hunting for a place to end-run or step across the crack will take you to a safer crossing.  Many rescues occur every year from climbers who decide to jump/leap/hop a crevasse in crampons.  Unlike popular films, this action typically results in a lower leg injury and an inability to descend the rest of the route.

Climbers returning to Schurman

At 13,400 feet, the most significant change to the route occurs. The previous path ascending through the Bergschrund is no longer viable. Instead, take a hard right and traverse out to Liberty Saddle. While this does add length to the climb, the terrain is significantly lower angle and climbers have been making good time. Large crevasses exist as you move into the saddle. Take the time to assess your crossings and find one you feel comfortable - don't just follow existing foot prints. From the Winthrop Saddle proceed up the final pitch to the summit. 

View across the 13,400 traverse to the Winthrop Saddle

Descend the same way, and use a GPS track (the one your team recorded on the way up..) to bring you back to the crevasse crossings identified on the way up. If you are using wands, remember to pick them up on you decent.

As a final note; please camp on the snow at Camp Schurman.  The same policy is in effect at Camp Muir, but a reminder is needed.  The rocky areas at both camps are used for aviation operations.  If a rescue was needed, the park helicopter would not be able to land with tents and cookware in the way. 

Camp on the snow (note the existing tent platforms)

Happy Climbing!