As of Wednesday, July 29th the Emmons-Winthrop route remains largely unchanged from the last post on the 14th of July. Many parties have been reporting unseasonably light crowds and favorable climbing conditions. Crevasses remain easily navigable just out of camp, up the corridor and crossing back towards the Winthrop Glacier at 11,500’. Above this point, many of the larger crevasses are still holding together due to their thickness and the cooler temps up high.
Due to the bergschrund at 13,600’, most parties have been traversing climber's right at 13,400' and contouring all the way out to Liberty Saddle. Although this does add some time/length to the climb, the terrain is fairly secure and straightforward. From the Saddle, 800 feet of climbing will get you to the summit.
Although a few parties have been attempting to climb the Winthrop Glacier directly from Camp Schurman, recent icefall has swept the approach and many more looming seracs remain. Despite the fact that route conditions are holding together well for this time of year, minimal traffic and warming temps should keep parties leery of old boot packs and crevasse crossings. Parties should be prepared to assess the route and navigate new bridge crossings both on the way up and on the way down.
Climbers and skiers approaching to Camp Schurman via the Inter Glacier will find that surface conditions are still quite planar and crevasses remain fairly closed up. There are a few holes in convex terrain - make sure to see the entire run out before committing to a glissade on the descent. Near Camp Curtis climbers are still traversing off of the Inter Glacier and onto the Emmons Glacier, then approaching camp from below.
Over the past two weeks, parties willing to make the effort to climb to Schurman have been rewarded with sunny weather, stable climbing conditions and few crowds. Traffic has been light which allows for a unique climbing experience not always found on standard routes.
