 |
| Weekend crowds on the route as seen from the top of the cleaver at 12,400'. |
From blue bird skies to blizzard like white out, rangers saw the full gamut of weather this past week and want to make sure teams are showing up prepared to handle the elements as they set off from Paradise and from Camp Muir. Even though clear weather may be seen while stepping out of the parking lot or Camp Muir, parties should ensure they have the proper equipment and know how to navigate and survive an afternoon storm. GPS, maps, compass, stove, tent and sleeping bag are just a few of the extra items that can make all of the difference if you and your team find yourselves in a tough situation.
 |
| Photo of DC tracklog. Notice the two variations from the top of the cleaver. The left hand option is no longer being maintained as the right hand route is climbing very well. |
Over the last 10 days, the DC route has shifted above 12,500'. Where the old route had been traversing west towards Camp Comfort, it now trends more to the North (climbers right). Guide services have now pulled all of the wands and fixed protection off the old route due to the overhead hazard and icy exposure of the old route.,
 |
| 12,900' crevasse that now has a ladder in place. |
Despite low snow conditions between Camp Muir and the top of the Disappointment Cleaver at 12,400', the upper mountain is climbing very well. Guide services installed one ladder at 12,900' to manage a crevasse that is beginning to open. No other adjuncts or fixed equipment can be found along the route.
Choke points like these can, and do, create bottle necks on a busy days so teams should strive to leave early, move efficiently and plan ahead for congestion along the route. Despite nearly 140 climbers along the route last Saturday, teams were respectful and courteous to one another which allowed for fluid transitions and smooth climbing.
Choke points like these can, and do, create bottle necks on a busy days so teams should strive to leave early, move efficiently and plan ahead for congestion along the route. Despite nearly 140 climbers along the route last Saturday, teams were respectful and courteous to one another which allowed for fluid transitions and smooth climbing.
 |
| Rockfall hazard along the route as you exit the Ingraham Glacier and gain the Disappointment Cleaver |
Rockfall hazard and overhead icefall remain the largest concern for the lower half of the route. Teams should ensure that they are not exposed to rockfall or icefall before they pull off the track to take breaks. Many of the areas exposed to overhead hazard are unavoidable so deliberate, efficient movement through the terrain is the only way to manage it. Even in the dark, keep an eye out for rocks and ice along the trail and ensure you are not climbing directly above or below another party when climbing on loose rock.
The climbing season is now in full swing up on Mt. Rainier and both the DC and Emmons routes have been full over the course of the last few weekends. Last weekend was dominated by clear weather up high and light-moderate winds which created very pleasant, very stable conditions for those that braved the low level clouds in the parking lot. This weekend will undoubtedly produce some great weather and conditions for climbing however, teams need to come prepared for the chance of thunderstorms and rapidly changing weather that is common for this time of year.
