Ingraham Direct Conditions Update May 6th

This weekend’s warm weather and sunny skies brought climbers and skiers to the slopes of Mount Rainier.  The Ingraham Direct route is beginning to see ascents from independent climbers as well as the guide services.  The route is very direct - currently 3.5 miles Camp Muir to the creator rim.  The climbing route ascends the Ingraham Glacier above Ingraham Flats (avoiding Disappointment Cleaver at the moment). There is one small plank spanning a crevasse (around 11,600’) and one ladder (around (11,800). Both of which are fairly benign crossings.  The route ascends to Camp Comfort and climbs directly to creator rim from there.  For an in-depth description, and descriptions of the E/W, Kautz Glacier and Liberty Ridge routes, see the links to the right.

With the forecasted warm weather, be heads-up for rockfall when climbing above Camp Muir (especially between Camp Muir and Ingraham Flats), as well as loose wet avalanches on solar slopes at lower elevations.

The snowpack on the ID and above Camp Comfort is relatively thin.  We highly recommend roping up while climbing the ID route, as there are many open and hollow crevasses that warrant the security that a rope can provide.

Lastly, make sure to pack out what you pack in and do your best to keep the mountain looking pristine for everyone.  Be on the lookout for micro trash and litter.  Even if it's not yours, throw it into a pocket and dispose of it once you reach a trash can.

Looking up the Ingraham Direct from Ingraham Flats.

Descending the Ingraham Direct, about to cross the lower plank.

Add caption