Monday, July 23, 2018

Emmons-Winthrop Update 7/23


The Emmons-Winthrop route remains in typical late July condition. Many crevasses in the Emmons Flats and Corridor areas sport thinning snow bridges and the route is growing more circuitous by the day. The bulk of the route remains unchanged from the previous posts; the route trends climber's left above the Corridor through a large bowl. Expect to make decisions regarding the best route for your team during your attempt.

Light blue indicates the most recent route to the Winthrop Saddle.
The bootpack is quite narrow in places—especially on steep traverses—and it requires careful footwork to avoid catching a crampon on your pants. The consequences of a fall in this terrain are significant. Move slowly and deliberately through this terrain; some parties may wish to use running belays to increase their security.

The bergschrund is on its last legs. Climbing over it is the steepest section of the older route.  It spans roughly 30 feet and the bridge is a mere three feet thick in places. Rangers were able to establish an alternate route to the summit rather than crossing this terrifying feature.

The old boot pack takes you over this....

This option traverses to climber's right (toward Liberty Cap) below the bergschrund and weaves its way through a small trough and open slopes out to the Winthrop Saddle at 13,600'. This recommended option approximates a common path that the Emmons-Winthrop route has followed in previous seasons. The bootpack is currently difficult to discern in this section and is not wanded.

Trend Right.
As July rolls on into August, expect the glaciers on Mount Rainier to continue to present more challenging climbing conditions. Be prepared to navigate complicated terrain, perform crevasse rescue, and give yourself more time overall to complete your summit attempt.