Wednesday, June 06, 2018

Ingraham Direct/Disappointment Cleaver Conditions June 6th

The preferred route up from Camp Muir is still The Ingraham Direct (depicted in orange on the map below).  

There are currently two routes kicked-in from Camp Muir to Columbia Crest.  The Ingraham Direct that had been the primary route for the past month or so has seen some glacial movement within the past couple of days.  The guide companies have decided to kick in a route on the cleaver in case a bridge in the Ingraham Ice-fall collapses.

The Dissapointment Cleaver route is slightly longer and involves travel over rocky areas which has the potential for rockfall if multiple parties are descending at the same time.

Above 12,700', the route is largely unchanged except for a crevasse bridge at 13,800' that fell through this week (seen in the picture below).  These bridges, though large stable, have the potential to collapse at any point.  We recommend parties keep their rope tight while navigating these crevasse crossings.  It is not a good idea to stop or take breaks on these bridges.

With the route becoming busier as the summer season progresses, there are a couple of notes that we want to touch on.

Stay as a group, and stay roped up while on the upper mountain.  Don't leave anyone parked on the side of the mountain while the rest of the group heads up to the summit.  If one team member cannot continue, the entire group needs to descend.

Be heads up for rock and ice fall.  With more and more climbers on the route, this hazard will increase.  Wear your helmet for the entire climb.

If your party is moving quicker than another party and you wish to pass, wait to do it in a safe location.  Don't try to pass while on steep icy terrain of over a crevasse bridge.

Stay as a group when descending from Camp Muir to Paradise.  We have had a number of parties get separated recently.  Use the gps track that you took on the way up if you encounter poor visibility on the way down.  This counts for the upper mountain as well.

Remember, everyone is here for the same reason.  Be courteous, and enjoy the climb.

A large bridge crevasse bridge that recently fell through, resulting in a short re-route.

Upper spine of the Dissapointment Cleaver

Ingraham Direct. Notice parties descending the ID, as well as traversing from the base of the cleaver.

July-like conditions.

Looking towards the "backboard" from the "Nose" of the Cleaver.

Looking uphill from the nose of the Dissapointment Cleaver

Cleaver route is depicted in purple. Ingraham Direct route is depicted in orange.