Wednesday, May 09, 2018

Spring Route Update - May 9, 2018

This picture shows the upper section of the Central Mowich Face in the foreground. The Sunset Amphitheater ridge line connects the Mowich Face to the Tahoma Glacier in the background.
Climbing Rangers have been out training on the mountain with the military over the past few days. Good weather provided the opportunity to get more early season photos of the upper mountain. These photos were taken May 7th, 2018. Remember that conditions change frequently this time of year. Snow coverage and surface conditions in these photos could be different.

Concessionaire guiding operations began this week on the Disappointment Cleaver route. The route currently ascends the Ingraham Glacier Direct and traverses over to Camp Comfort atop Gibraltar Rock before going to the summit. Conditions on the Ingraham Glacier are dynamic and this route often falls out of condition quickly.

Disappointment Cleaver
Other notable observations included large crevasses opening on the Carbon Glacier, and a large crevasse forming on the Emmons Glacier around 12,500'. The Kautz Glacier sports bare ice on both of the ice steps above Camp Hazard.

The extended weather forecast for this weekend is calling for a high pressure system to move in starting on Friday with sunny days over the weekend. Warm temperatures have also been producing natural, wet loose avalanches on many slopes--particularly those exposed to strong solar radiation. Beware of wet surface snow, deep boot penetration, exposure to large slopes, and cornices lurking above. Finally, expect to see other parties if you're climbing one of the more popular routes.

Emmons-Winthrop Glacier
Liberty Ridge, Carbon Glacier