Friday, May 25, 2018

Ingraham Direct Route Conditions - May 23

Looking down the Ingraham Glacier towards Camp Comfort and Gibraltar Rock
The Ingraham Direct is remains the preferred climbing route on the south side of the mountain; it is holding in there even with the recent summer-like temperatures we've been experiencing at Mount Rainier National Park.  Currently, the route is roughly 2.9 miles and is still fairly direct.  Lots of recent rockfall was noticed, especially around Cathedral Gap (see photo).  Once past Ingraham Flats, the route ascends the Ingraham Glacier towards Camp Comfort atop Gibraltar Rock.  From this point, the route switchbacks to Columbia Crest with only one notable crevasse crossing around 13,200'.

With warm weather forecast for Memorial Day Weekend, expect both rock and ice fall on the route.  Crevasse bridges that seem stable on the way up will likely soften throughout the day, increasing chances of crevasse falls on the descent.  Keep a heads up, especially while on your descent.

With the busy weekend right around the corner, please have patience with fellow climbers and know that there will be multiple groups ascending and descending at different speeds.  Please be courteous, communicative, and pass other parties in safe locations.  Also DO NOT split up your team on the upper mountain -- keep everyone roped together while climbing above Camp Muir.  If one person in the group feels like they need to turn around, don't send them down alone.

13,200' crevasse bridge


Recent large rockfall below Cathedral Gap

Cowlitz Glacier and Camp Muir.  Notice the extent of the rockfall crossing the existing track.  We recommend moving through this area quickly and keeping an eye out for falling rock.

Current Ingraham Direct route in orange.