Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Emmons-Winthrop

The Emmons Glacier route is currently in fine shape.  On July 9th climbing rangers found very similar conditions that were reported from the July 4th Blog Post.  That being said please remember that large glacier routes like this are dynamic and continue to shift through out the season both on a daily and even hourly pace.  Inspect all crevasse crossings and look for better ones where it is necessary.

The first location that is changing quickly is the section between Camp Curtis across the lower Emmons and into Camp Shurman.  The descent from Camp Curtis down to the Glacier has several large moats that are opening up through the main track.  Safer options exist so take the time to look around beforehand.  Also on the approach to camp Shurman the large moat right before stepping into camp is beginning to open.  Stopping on the snow bridge and un-roping on this snow bridge is not recommended.

The Emmons Flats camp can be a pleasant and quiet alternative to Camp Shurman but please keep in mind you are on a glacier here and there may be crevasses in camp.

From the top of the Corridor moving up into the alpine garden there is cerac fall hazard, please keep that in mind when planning breaks or traveling in large groups with potential for bottle necking.

The large crevasse at 12,400 may be reasonable to cross for a little while longer but every party should inspect bridges.  Once this can no longer be crossed the route will most likely move south then back to the west for 1,000 feet of climbing or so before rejoining current track at 13,400.  The Bergshrund at 13,800 needs to be given a lot of respect as well.

Again the climb is in great shape and may remain so for quite awhile and will also continue to shift from day to day.  Have fun with it.