The current track up the DC is right around 3.8 miles from
Camp Muir to Columbia Crest. There is
still no ladder at high Crack above Ingraham Flats and the crossing onto the
Cleaver is fairly straight forward with little moat exposure. That said, there is still a large amount of
rock and ice fall in this area, with a recent collapse that sent large blocks of
ice onto and below the current track. We
recommend moving through this area (between High Crack and the nose of the
cleaver) with purpose, don’t hang out and take a breather and remember that
rock and ice fall occur at all hours of the day.
We recommend shortening your rope between climbers in the
rock sections, such as Cathedral Gap and the Disappointment Cleaver to improve
travel and minimize the risk of snagging up rocks and dropping them onto
parties below you.
Ladder crossing leaving the Emmons Shoulder |
Shrund crossing with fixed line visible |
Looking towards the Emmons Shoulder. Taken a hundred or so feet above the top of the Cleaver. |
un-anchored.
As we progress through July, keep in mind that glacier
conditions are breaking up and snow bridges are thinning and opening. This means that crevasse fall potential are
heightened. As a traveler in glaciated,
YOU NEED TO KNOW HOW TO EXTRICATE YOUR PARTNER FROM A CREVASSE. This means carrying the appropriate equipment
and knowing how to use it. Climbing
Rangers are looking for your team to be equipped with a rope of adequate length
for your rope team, multiple pickets within your group and gear required to rig
a raising system. Everyone should be
traveling with helmets, ice axes, crampons etc…
The past couple weekends have been very busy and we have
been reaching capacity at our high camps which results in large numbers of
climbers on routes like the D.C. and the Emmons. In order to avoid these busy and sometimes
hazardous scenarios, we encourage you to plan a trip to climb during the week, opposed
to the weekend.
July is a busy time for Search and Rescue on Mount Rainier. Please come prepared with the appropriate
gear and knowledge for climbing in heavily glaciated terrain and keep an eye
out for changing weather.