|Looking up the route from 11,400 ft.|
Last week's lower freezing levels paired with the warming trend at the start of the weekend allowed climbing rangers and excellent opportunity to get out on the SW side of the mountain. The itinerary was to access the Kautz cleaver via Paradise by crossing the lower Nisqually, climbing the Wilson gully, and contouring west around 8,500 ft. all the way to the Kautz glacier. The lower Nisqually/Wilson gully are still well filled in and are easily navigated. The ridge line that leads up to "the castle" above the Wilson gully however, is starting to melt out and peel away. It was quite difficult to manage on skis and i would bet you will be forced to walk the ridge on rock after this warm spell.
|Ridge line melting out and breaking up as cornice pulls away from the ridge. |
Tricky navigation if you choose to stay on the snow.
|Route accross the Kautz glacier and up the couloir shown. 9,100 ft. camp shown as red square.|
|Track log from camp to 13,000 ft.|