Well, the Disappointment Cleaver has been playing hard ball of late. Climbing rangers went up the route on 8/22 to assess conditions. And as reported in several previous posts, the problem zone has been just above the top of the Cleaver itself, with the upper portions of the route remaining similar to previous posts. There are two ladders in place, over a section that has been settling and falling into a large crevasse feature.
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| Ladder at approx. 12,700 feet |
There have been relatively few groups making it to the summit in the past few days. One guided team was able to make it up yesterday (8/21), but it took the team approximately 14 hours from Camp Muir to summit and back. The combination of dealing with the ladders, and the length of the route has been causing longer than normal summit days for many teams. However, all of that said, the route is not closed! It is a matter of the level of risk each team is willing to accept. With proper belays, and rope technique it is possible to make it across the crevassed/ladder section above the cleaver. When making such decisions, it is important to keep in mind how warm the weather has been recently, as well as how rapidly the conditions on the upper mountain change this time of year. Just because a crevasse bridge felt solid when crossed in the early morning hours, does not mean that it is safe to cross in the warmer parts of the day.
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| Overview of the ladder and crevasse zone above the DC. |
As far as the rest of the route is concerned, the cleaver itself is almost entirely melted out. The recommended line of travel is to more or less follow the spine, or ridge crest, of the cleaver. And as always, be aware of teams travelling above and below you for rockfall. Stay tuned for updates as the route changes, and be sure to thank the hard working guide services when you see them for the excellent work they do maintaining the climbing route!
