Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 8/17/26

8/13/2026 Thunderheads build behind Little Tahoma, as seen from Camp Muir. Lightning storms can pose a serious hazard to hikers and climbers, avoid being caught in one if possible.

Camp Muir has experienced thunderstorms, fog, wildfire smoke, and sunshine this week. August weather can swing from pleasant to stormy quickly. Pay close attention to the Mt. Rainier Rec Forecast and take heed of any mentions of thunderstorms and lightning. These storms are serious on the upper mountain and you don't want to get caught in one while climbing or hiking to Muir. Long range forecasts are indicating a chance of thunderstorms returning to the mountain by Friday and Saturday Aug 21-22. 

Muir Snowfield: 

The snowfield is in good condition for August. The trail is clear and dry to Pebble Creek, with a mix of rock and snow above ~7500'. Though little ice is exposed now, expect more to melt out with this week's warmer weather. Be wary of streams running underneath the snow you are moving on, as this can create dangerous creek holes that you can punch through. Running water near you or the sound of running water coming from the snow are both signs you could be near one of these thin snow sections. Additionally, be mindful at the transition of rock and snow, as the snow melts quicker around rocks and may create hollow areas where you can punch through.

Camp Muir:

Camp Muir currently has camping on the snow in the trough and the wind roll. Take care to keep your food well contained as the ravens, mice, chipmunks, and Rosy Finches have been getting into camper's belongings. Please do not feed the animals as human habituation will make the problem worse. There are four bathrooms open at Camp Muir - two on each side of camp - as well as two blue bag barrels for disposing of bagged human waste. There is no running water at Camp Muir.

Disappointment Cleaver Route: 

The route is in good condition compared to this time of year in recent history. The main hazards right now are overhead hazard from active rock and ice fall and the potential for crevasse falls. To lessen the likelihood of these hazards, use helmets, do not stop in areas with the potential for rock and icefall, use proper glacier travel and short roping techniques, protect areas with fall potential, and avoid kicking rocks off the mountain as there may be climbing parties below you.

From Camp Muir the route crosses the Cowlitz and ascends to Cathedral Gap. The Beehive and Gibraltar have been shedding rocks regularly, as evidenced by the many rocks on the surface of the Cowlitz Glacier, so keep a heads up. Additionally, the rock is loose ascending to the Gap so take proper rope management and movement precautions. From Cathedral Gap to the Ingraham Flats, the route is mainly snow, though you will find rocks on the surface from rock fall of off Cathedral Ridge. 

There are many camping options at Ingraham Flats. Please do not set up camp in the boot pack. Also, take note of crevasses in the area and give them a wide berth for camping.

8/16/2026 The ladder at High Crack - 11,200'. The white/grey rope can be used as a handline.

Above the Flats, the route continues along the traditional path. There is a ladder at High Crack (pictured above) with a hand line. From the ladder, the route follows a generally traversing path through the Icebox and the Bowling Alley onto the spine of the Cleaver. This area has been quite active with rockfall recently, take necessary precautions to minimize the time your group is exposed. There is a fin of ice in the transition off of snow in the bowling alley that may cause difficulty for some parties. Utilize the handlines once on the rock to protect your party and move efficiently in this terrain. A route up the Cleaver is marked with wands. Understand that staying on route up and down the cleaver requires vigilance. If you find yourself in areas with copious loose rocks, you are likely off route. 

From the top of the Cleaver, the route should be quite obvious as it is the path of least resistance amongst the penitentes. There are also wands marking the route: one means you are on the right path, two means a change of direction. 

8/16/2026 A climber in the bootpack above the top of the Disappointment Cleaver. 

The route continues up from the top of the Cleaver, winding through an area of jumbled crevasses before traversing to the Emmon's Shoulder. From the shoulder the route continues up a series of switchbacks to the Crater Rim. There are multiple snow bridge crossings on the upper mountain right now that may be negatively impacted by the warming weather. Take care to inspect these before crossing, as anything you cross you should feel confident it will still be there on your way down. Additionally, there is running protection in place on the upper mountain. Use this as necessary to protect your party, but please do not take the pickets or the carabiners as these increase security for all parties on the mountain. 

8/16/2026 - A snow bridge crossing a crevasse at ~13800' on the DC.

Descent

Descend the same path you used to ascend, taking care to protect your movement as necessary - tired legs can cause falls that would otherwise not occur. Additionally, the boot pack between the penitentes is narrow in some places; be careful of your footing in these sections. 

Additional Information

There is an active fire near Grand Park in the northeast area of the park. Sunrise Road and White River Road to SR410 are CLOSED until further notice. All trails originating from these park roads, and all trails in the Grand Park area, are also closed until further notice. Updated 8/9/2026.

https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/fire.htm

A climbing permit and Payment of the Climbing Cost and Recovery Fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Webpage. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm. Remember to Leave No Trace on the mountain. The Camp Muir Public Shelter is still undergoing renovations and not accessible to the public.

Happy Climbing!

Disappointment Cleaver Update 8/7/26

Seeking an escape from the smoke covering much of the Pacific Northwest, climbers and day-hikers alike are enjoying the fresh mountain air at Camp Muir and beyond. The Disappointment Cleaver route is holding up and many climbing parties have successfully summited as we enter the late-summer climbing season. Sunny weather and calm winds have made for pleasant climbing conditions, however precipitation and cooler temperatures are expected to arrive later in the week.

The main hazards associated with this time of year include:

• Overhead hazard from rockfall and icefall

• Thin snow bridges

• Exhaustion and dehydration

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route

The Muir Snowfield:

• Do your best to avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation by staying on trail or snow as you ascend from Paradise. 

• Some people may find foot-traction, such as micro-spikes or crampons, useful with the current snowfield conditions. The amount of bare glacial ice visible on the snowfield will increase as the season continues.

• Use caution when glissading down the snowfield due to exposed rocks, cracks in the ice, and water running beneath the snow.

Camp Muir:

• The Public Shelter remains closed for construction.

• There is no running water at Camp Muir.

• Ravens have been aggressively tearing into people’s trash–keep your camp tidy.

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route:

The route remains reasonably direct and efficient for this time of year. Review the previous two DC blog posts to gain context on how the route has been evolving. Much of it remains the same.

Remember to rope up just past Camp Muir, as you are immediately on the Cowlitz Glacier. There has been active rockfall across the Cowlitz from Gibraltar Rock and Cathedral Rock so move through this terrain efficiently.

The guiding services mark the route with wands that reflect headlamps. Two wands next to each other often signal a change in direction (switchback) or re-route. Wands often fall over (especially on the Cleaver), so have a backup plan if wands are not visible. Use critical thinking and navigational tools, such as a GPX file and mapping app.

Past Ingraham Flats, the High Crack ladder remains in place. There is a traverse from High Crack across to the Ice Box and Bowling Alley area, where periods of rockfall have been observed. To manage your team’s exposure to rockfall, plan to take breaks in areas of less overhead hazard and then move quickly when traveling underneath any rock. There is still a viable route on to the Cleaver itself, with a hand-line for climbers to use for balance-only. Avoid clipping into this hand-line.

The High Crack Ladder

The DC itself is fully melted out and it primarily involves rock travel. Remember to use careful footwork and don’t let your rope drag on the ground through this section; avoid sweeping rocks down on parties beneath you. The uphill party is responsible for mitigating this avoidable rockfall hazard. If you’re concerned about kicking rocks down on other parties, simply stop moving and wait for the area below you to be clear of people before you continue. Communicate and be patient.

Travel on the Disappointment Cleaver is mostly on rock.

Above the Cleaver, the route passes several glacial features and traverses climber’s right around 12,800 feet. There are several switchbacks and sections with fixed pickets to protect exposed areas. Please leave all equipment (like carabiners) on the pickets where you found them. Snow bridges over crevasses may weaken with warmer daytime temperatures so be prepared to navigate around crevasses or protect crossings with pickets and/or a belay. There is a wooden board that serves the same purpose as a ladder above 13,000 feet. The route ascends steadily to the Crater Rim–but remember: the summit is only the halfway point. Reserve enough energy, food, and water for the journey back down. 

Additional Information

There is an active fire near Grand Park in the northeast area of the park. Sunrise Road and White River Road to SR410 are CLOSED until further notice. All trails originating from these park roads, and all trails in the Grand Park area, are also closed until further notice. Updated 8/9/2026.

                                        https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/fire.htm

    A climbing permit and Payment of the Climbing Cost and Recovery Fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on Mount Rainier National Parks Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm. Remember to Leave No Trace on the mountain (and in the Camp Muir Public Shelter).

The Grand Park 2 Fire is visible from the Cleaver.

August on the Emmons

!Alert! Due to wildfire activity in the Grand Park area, the East side of the park has been closed as of 08/08/2026.  The closure is at the White River Entrance near the ranger station, and includes the White River Campground and Sunrise areas. Please check current conditions and park closures/openings here for more up to date and further information. 

The upper Emmons-Winthrop Glaciers. 

August has arrived at Mt Rainier, and while the low country in the park remains as busy as ever, the season is shifting on the upper mountain and climber traffic is slowing down, especially on the Emmons-Winthrop side of the mountain. Recent reports from the last week have had only a few independent teams and a couple guided groups venturing up the Emmons. Most have reported turning around above the top of the corridor in the ~12,000'-12,500' zone where the glacier is becoming quite broken and hard to navigate. Teams have also reported difficulties crossing the moraine from Camp Curtis onto the Emmons below Camp Schurman, and some are even opting to turn around here due to the loose rock, exposure, and moat crossing at the bottom of the moraine. 

The Corridor with large sun cups 

For those still coming up to explore the Emmons-Winthrop late season there are few things to keep in mind. Guided groups will be winding down their season in early-August and climbing rangers will not be at Camp Schurman as frequently, so come prepared for a remote, wilderness glacier climb where you may be the only people on this side of the mountain. Climb well within your physical and technical skill set and make conservative choices.  There will be no wands or boot pack.  

The bathrooms at Camp Schurman are still open and are typically closed for the winter around the start of September - we'll keep you posted. As always, please pack out all of your trash and come prepared to pack out your human waste should nature call away from camp. 

Looking back at Camp Curtis and the moraine access to the Emmons Glacier from Camp Schurman

Late season glacier routes can be very circuitous and challenging with many large, long crevasses, so teams should be prepared for a longer time on route and more technical conditions. There is often much more exposed glacial ice later in the season too. The Inter Glacier on the approach to camp Schurman can become quite icy in late summer, and even has a few crevasses. As of 8/07/26, the Inter was still 90% snow and the majority of teams were choosing to ascend that way. 

Smoke from the Grand Park fire as seen from Ruth Ridge. 

For those looking for solitude and challenge, late summer and fall can still be a fine time to climb on the Emmons side of the mountain. Those willing to pioneer new terrain in technical conditions can often find success. Happy climbing.

August DC Update

The Disappointment Cleaver route has held up nicely through July.  Guides have done an amazing amount of work to keep the route climbing smoothly.  As August arrives on the mountain so can smoke and heat.  Please make sure to hydrate (not just water, but salts/electrolytes too) and be cautious of your respiratory system during periods of poor air quality.  

See the climbers just past the old serac fall debris.  Don't linger on this traverse.

The route is mostly unchanged from the last update.  From Camp Muir the boot pack crosses the Cowlitz Glacier and ascends Cathedral Gap.  The section near Cathedral Rocks has mostly melted out and climber's should use extra caution here as they ascend/descend - it can be tricky walking on rock with crampons on.  Take your time and use your ice axe or trekking pole as a third point of contact.  Same goes for the Cleaver itself - it's almost all melted out and 99% rock travel.  

The Disappointment Cleaver is almost all melted out for the season.

 

Getting onto the Cleaver has been in good shape.  The snow bridge that climbers accessed the Cleaver with this last weekend was large and supported.  As the temperatures rise and things continue to melt keep an eye on this entrance/exit on and off the Cleaver - the snow bridge in place now won't last forever. The moat between the Cleaver and Ingraham has started to yawn open and has provided a bit more protection from falling rock.  Remember to move efficiently and not to stop and take breaks in areas prone to rockfall - limit your exposure.  Plan ahead and take a break before and after these more hazardous areas. 

 

  

The entrance onto the Cleaver.  Note all the rocks on the snow.  Don't linger on this traverse. 

 

From the top of the Cleaver climbers have ascended almost straight up before traversing briefly to climber's right around 12,800 and then making their way back towards the Crater Rim.  Average climbing times have still been fairly reasonable.  The route hasn't gotten too circuitous.  Check out our Route Brief for the Disappointment Cleaver for more information and suggestions.  Happy August!