Autumn Winter 24/ 25

Any party considering climbing should note that at this time the guide services have ceased operations on the upper mountain, and as such have removed all route adjuncts including ladders and handlines. While the boot pack previously used is still quite visible on the mountain, it will lead you to places where these adjuncts were previously in place, and where the crossings are no longer viable as such.

This significantly increases the technicality of moving through this terrain, and travel on the mountain, more than ever, will require independent route finding and assessment. Alongside this, there is a dramatically decreased likelihood of encountering other parties who could provide assistance in the case of an emergency. Any climber attempting the summit this time of year should consider it an off-season climb and be very experienced, totally self-sufficient, and realize that any emergency help could be not just hours, but days away. 

In the regular season, a trip to Camp Muir can often be done without that extra equipment, but as we move further into the season, conditions become extreme and can become dangerous with icy, crevassed surface conditions being hidden by fresh snow. 

Late season storms can roll in with little warning and can be much more vigorous and longer lasting than summer squalls. Please check the weather forecast before starting your trip - click on the Weather Resources tab above for some starting places - but keep in mind that forecasting for Mt Rainier is very difficult, so prepare for the unexpected! 

Stretches of beautiful summer-like weather can also be possible, and late-season visits do offer more solitude than the more popular times, but please be cautious this time of year. All climbers are still required to pay the annual climbing fee (which can be done online ahead of time) and obtain a climbing permit (which has switched to self-registration for the winter season and can be done in-person at the Paradise Old Station).  

Self-Registration is at the Paradise Ranger Station near the center of the photo.

Enjoy the change of seasons and climb safe!

Camp Schurman: Emmons-Winthrop and Fall Camp Closures

 Thanks everyone for a wonderful climbing season. The following is an update on the route and expected closure for Camp Schurman:

The Changing Of The Seasons: 

Temperatures are beginning to cool, moisture is in the air, and snowfall is once again arriving on the upper mountain. Fall weather patterns are settling in with more frequency and Labor Day Weekend has come to pass. The main climbing season is wrapping up here on Mt. Rainier.

What does that mean for the Emmons-Winthrop?  

Nobody has successfully summited via the Emmons-Winthrop in several weeks and there is no established route. It has become extremely complex and difficult to navigate with many tricky, thin crossings, many sections requiring protection and a section that requires a vertical climb up and short rappel. There are numerous new crevasse complexes to work through starting right out of Camp Schurman and a route through would likely require significant variation off of the standard route. Guide services have called it for the season on this side.  

What does this mean for the rangers and Camp Schurman? 

On our end, rangers are beginning to shut down Camp Schurman for the season. This means rangers will not be staffing it. Camp itself is being winterized, so, no resources will be available. This includes bathrooms closing and other little things, like the webcams being taken out of services and blue bag barrels being flown out.  

What does this mean for climbers? 

If you do choose to venture on this side of the mountain, remember, it is going to be a truly remote and technical mountaineering experience. There have been multiple systems rolling through the region with Fall like weather that have brought snow and rain to the upper mountain. Prepare accordingly.