Conditions and Permit Update: Camp Schurman, Emmons-Winthrop, and Liberty Ridge

Looking directly up at the Emmons Glacier.

Camp Schurman

SR 410/Chinook Pass is still closed for the season, limiting access to the east side of the national park. The target opening date is May 22nd. Biking and walking is allowed on the park road, but be vigilant for park vehicles traveling on the roadway.

Permits are self-registration only until May 22nd. After May 22nd, the White River Wilderness Information Center will be open 7:30am to 5:00pm. Self-registration is located in front of the White River Wilderness Information Center and walk-up registration is located inside.

Camp Schurman facilities, including bathrooms, are currently buried in snow and inaccessible. Plan to be self-sufficient on a trip up to and above Camp Schurman (including bringing blue bags and packing them out).

Buried Camp Schurman.

The view of the Emmons-Winthrop zone from Little Tahoma.

Liberty Ridge, early May 2026.

Conditions and Permit Update: Muir Snowfield, Camp Muir, Ingraham Direct

We’ve been busy here at Mt. Rainier, with guided and unguided parties climbing and skiing numerous routes on the Mountain. As we get rolling into the season, we wanted to remind everyone of the what, where, and how to have a successful trip. 

Permits

Climbing permits are required for all people traveling on glaciers and/or above normal climbing high camps (~10,000 feet). Solo climbers are required to apply for a separate permit. Camping also requires a wilderness permit.

Currently, there are several ways to obtain the various permits needed, depending on when you plan to climb. 

The climbing permit fee can be paid for online here.

Self-Registration will occur from May 18 to May 21. There is a self-registration booth located inside the hallway of the Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC).

Walk-up permits are available on May 15, 16, and 17. Beginning on Friday, May 22nd, the PWIC will be open every day. Their hours are 7:30am to 5:00pm. Wilderness permit reservations (for camping) can also be made on recreation.gov.

Muir Snowfield and Camp Muir

Alongside rapidly changing conditions on the upper mountain, the Muir Snowfield is in a transitional state between winter and summer. Climbers, hikers, and skiers need to be prepared to handle various types of weather and travel conditions. 

There is patchy snow the entire way up the Snowfield. Pebble Creek is the highest place to access drinking water on the way to Camp Muir, however a water purification method is strongly recommended and the creek may be frozen during cold temperatures. Please stay on trails or snow whenever possible to protect fragile alpine vegetation. 

The route to Camp Muir is not clearly marked and requires mountain-travel skills including strong white-out navigation abilities, using GPS. The Snowfield is bordered by consequential, steep, glaciated terrain and can be difficult to navigate in poor weather and visibility.

Inclement weather will hit the area on Thursday (May 14) through the weekend. Expect high winds, low temperatures, poor visibility, and heavy precipitation. Snow levels are forecasted down to 3500 feet on Saturday. Avalanche hazard will increase; please monitor and submit all avalanche activity to the Northwest Avalanche Center. 

As a reminder, the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed for construction. Prepare to camp in winter-like conditions. There is an emergency radio located in the first restroom nearest the helipad and can be used to initiate a rescue response. Plan to be self-sufficient; rescues in winter-like conditions can take several days to respond to.

Looking up at the Muir Snowfield from Pebble Creek on 5/8/2026.

Upper Mountain 

See previous blog post for upper mountain route conditions. These conditions are changing with the storm and features like wands and crevasses will likely be buried under new snow and less obvious. Guide services are reporting a single ladder on the current route up the Ingraham Direct between 11600 feet and 11800 feet. Climbing conditions over the next few days (and potentially weeks) will require advanced mountaineering skills to mitigate hazards such as avalanches, extreme weather, and navigation in complex glaciated terrain.

 

The Ingraham Glacier on 5/8/2026. Gibraltar Rock can be seen on the left side of the photo and the Disappointment Cleaver on the right.

Conditions Update and Permit Info 5/6/26

Northwest side of the mountain from lower Ptarmigan ridge on May 5th, 2026

Climbing Season is underway at Mt. Rainier. 

In order to streamline your experience getting a permit before your climb, pay attention to the notes below.

Permits: The Paradise Wilderness Information Center will be open and issuing permits Friday, May 8th - Sunday, May 10th. Operating hours Fri-Sun are 07:30 am - 5:00 pm. 

The PWIC is located in Paradise behind the Old Ranger Station. The entrance can be found on the east side of the building labeled "Guide House" 

- Please arrive having already paid your climbing fee: here. 

- Wilderness permits can be reserved ahead of time, or acquired in person at the Paradise Wilderness Information Center. 

- For a detailed description of the permits required to climb Mt. Rainier, check out the park's climbing page. 

Monday May 11th - Thursday May 14th: Wilderness permits are issued via self-registration in the foyer of the small A-frame ranger station (the Old Station) at the upper Paradise parking lot. Or at the Longmire Wilderness Information Center. Please arrive having already paid your climbing fee: here

South side of Rainier on May 1st 2026

Upper Mountain Climbing Conditions: Parties have been summiting via the Ingraham Direct route above Ingraham Flats. The route ascends the Ingraham Glacier until 12,700 feet, where it ascends to Camp Comfort above Gibraltar Rock. From there, the route continues upwards with a slight detour around large crevasses just below 14,000 feet. The route meets the crater rim at Guide Rock.

The upper mountain snow surfaces are firm for this time of year. A mild winter combined with a high-elevation rain event at the end of March has made conditions resembling smooth and firm, hard packed snow. As a result, guides are using several pickets on their climbs to protect areas of the route with fall hazard. If you have and/or use pickets on your climb for running protection, it's important to practice a procedure with your team for navigating them before your climb to enable you to move through these areas efficiently and not disrupt the movement of teams around you.

Also of note, there have been a couple instances in the last week of climbers and skiers being caught in avalanches. Consult the Northwest Avalanche Center's West South Region Observations for more information.