Ingraham Direct/Disappointment Cleaver Route Conditions

Warm temperatures and clear skies this week are giving way to lowering freezing levels and showers over Fourth of July weekend.

Sunrise over Little Tahoma Peak

Guide services are continuing to climb the Ingraham Direct route at this time. Though not as direct as a couple weeks ago, the route remains in favorable conditions. Summer temperatures are widening crevasses in the 11,500’ to 13,000’ zone. It would not be surprising to see ladders spanning some of these crevasses in the coming days. The serac band around 12,500’ poses some significant icefall hazard on the route, as evidenced by several large ice blocks that have crossed the route. Reduce exposure by climbing in cold conditions, taking breaks before the hazard, and move quickly through these hazard zones. Be patient at bottlenecks and step uphill to allow faster parties to pass on the downhill side.

Guide services have started to consider transitioning to the Disappointment Cleaver route as the crevasses on the Ingraham Glacier widen and icefall hazard increases with summer temperatures. At this time, the cleaver remains pillowed with snow and is rather steep. The surface conditions are firm and may require running protection for fall protection. Due to these concerns, the Ingraham Direct still remains the primary climbing route in the Muir corridor.

Ingraham Flats and Ingraham Direct Route

After warming temperatures this past week, the winter snowpack containing persistent weak layers has stabilized. Wet avalanche problems are the primary concern in the current summer snowpack. Signs of pending wet loose avalanches are increased boot penetration, pinwheels, and roller balls. Wet slab avalanches, of low probability but high consequence, are of concern with high freezing levels, significant water in the snowpack, and nights with no freezing temperature recovery. Reduce exposure by starting early, climbing at night, and monitoring firmness of snowpack.

With the possible return of snowfall this weekend higher on the mountain, slab avalanche problems could present themselves again. Visibility could deteriorate quickly and wands can become invisible in a whiteout. Use GPS tracking while the skies are still clear so it can be used as backup if conditions deteriorate. Slick surface conditions, poor visibility, and increasing winds can turn into a nasty combination quickly.

Summer is here after months of winter weather. Don’t let pent up unsuccessful summit attempts or urgency overtake you. Though the mountain hasn’t been accessible for months, it will still be here for years to come. Be patient at bottlenecks, monitor snow conditions, and respect the weather.

Calm winds, warm temperatures, and good visibility at the summit crater.

Ingraham Direct/Disappointment Cleaver 6/23

 The Ingraham Direct (ID) is moving towards the end of its season. At 11500' just above Ingraham Flats the Disappointment Cleaver (DC) route is being put in by guide services who are anticipating the ID falling out as the weather is warming up. The DC route is crossed off by guide service flagging.

 

As the weather warms the ID will have increased rockfall, icefall, avalanche and crevasse hazard. For now the ID continues to be climbed by guide services and independent parties alike. The cleaver is still blanketed with steep snow; consequential fall zones on the cleaver will push climbers to place running protection. 

Emmons Update 6/28/22

Summer is finally here on Mount Rainier! Freezing levels rose to 14,000' over the weekend removing much of the lingering uncertainty regarding snow stability on the Emmons-Winthrop route. The summit is currently accessible via a multiple route options.

As summer sets in, crevasses will rapidly begin to open and the danger from crevasse fall will increase. Climbers who find themselves on the upper mountain when the snow conditions turn to slush are taking on more risk and should be descending as quickly as is prudent.

The snow on the Inter and lower Emmons glaciers is still finishing up it's spring transition and does not support weight well when warm. Because of this, account for longer-than-usual approach times to camp. There are some crevasses already opening on the Emmons between Camp Curtis and Camp Schurman. The largest of which is no more than 15 feet below camp. 

Crevasse opening up outside of Camp Schurman.  Note the approach path and ski tracks.  This is surprisingly common, and illustrates the need to constantly assess the route.  Just because others have  travelled there before, it doesn't mean it's still safe to do so.  

Multiple route options exist on the upper mountain. The map below shows a route that is quite direct, but gets fairly steep above 13,400'. The other noteworthy option is to traverse out to the Winthrop Saddle at about 13,400' to cross the final bergschrund. Just be aware, the crevasse bridge that makes this variation possible may fall out soon.  Always be prepared for the route to fall out behind you, as you may need to on-sight a new descent path or climb back to the summit and descend an alternate route.

For climbers that are considering climbing Liberty Ridge and the descending down the Emmons-Winthrop, it's always best to know first-hand the descent route and it's possible variations, as it's not always an easy on-sight.

Track from route on 6/25

A Big Warm Up On The Way and Continued Avalanche Activity

 As the first big warm up of the season is approaching we have still been observing very large avalanches being triggered naturally. The most recent was observed on the Cowlitz Glacier below Anvil Rock (~9,500'). 

A photo of an avalanche taken 6/24/2022

A map of the area of the avalanche

This was a wet slab avalanche. This type of avalanche often occurs during prolonged warming events. There may be little warning of increasing avalanche hazard other than warm temperatures and slushy snow. That said, snowballs or pinwheels rolling down the snow surface and/or smaller avalanches occurring is a sure sign of increasing avalanche danger. One other possible indicator is several successive nights without a sold freeze on the snowpack.

Usually travel conditions are poor when the danger of wet slab avalanches is highest so climbing at night, sticking to a time plan and turning you climb around before the day 'get's away from you' is advised, even more so than normal.

Kautz Conditions 6/22

Kautz Conditions appear to be inline with other routes on the south aspects of Mount Rainier- for the most part, routes such as the Kautz, Fuhrer Finger & Wilson Headwall all appear to be well filled in. Snow still blankets most of the steeper pitches, such as the "ice tongue" and appears planar and well connected. The rock step at Camp Hazard has a minimal drop to access the base of the ice tongue of the Kautz and should be relatively easy to navigate in both directions of travel. The Turtle snowfield is well filled in and is beginning to corn by mid morning, although climbers may encounter post-holing if they are ascending later in the day. 

The lower crossing of the Nisqually is also well filled in and minimal crevasses are visible. This being said, temperatures are forecasted to remain warm and sunny. Use caution when navigating a crossing as crevasse bridges may soften, leading for higher potential for a crevasse fall. 

Lots of older, but surprisingly large wet-loose avalanche debris exists from prior shed cycles and activity should act as reminders for climbers and skiers alike to heed warning about the possibility for avalanches. We are just cresting into our first real warmup of the season. We have received lots of snow this spring- that mixed with more warm and sunny weather presents the potential for more Wet snow related avalanches in the upcoming weeks.

 

A view of the mountain from the Lower Nisqually
crossing below Glacier Vista.

A view of the Kautz Glacier from the rock step at Camp Hazard

Emmons-Winthrop Route 6/19

Ski tracks down the Emmons 6/20

On Friday the 17th, 2-4 inches of snow fell above 7400 feet that did not consolidate well to the underlying surface. Saturday the 18th, winds picked up and the sun came out in the afternoon and the small amount of snow seemed to have blown away or consolidated. Sunday and Monday was the start of our first real high pressure cycle with sunny skies and moderate winds. Over the weekend multiple parties had success in reaching the summit, most of which involved ski descents.

A route to the summit on the Emmons

The Emmons is filled in well for this time of year and the route is very direct. Minimal avalanche danger was observed, although this may change with the increasing freezing levels. Old wind slabs were present, but shallow and non-reactive. There was a mixture of firm sections, soft wind blown snow about a foot deep, and punchy wind drifted snow. Sagging snow bridges exist from 11000' to 13000' feet, something to keep an eye on as the temperatures increase.

Variable snow conditions on the Corridor

Wind blown snow surface with a distant view of the Prow

The approach to Camp Schurman has some challenges as well. Ascending the Inter Glacier, parties that did not have floatation (skis/snowshoes), postholed more than expected. Patchy snow still exists on the trail after about 1.5 miles. The creek crossing at Glacier basin may also be flowing higher than usual with the higher temperatures and increased snow melt. Be aware of rising water levels as temperatures rise throughout the weekend.

View of Russel Cliffs from just below the bergschrund

We might be turning the corner on winter and finally getting a glimpse of summer. As the freezing levels continue to remain high, avalanche hazard still remains. Evidence of past large avalanches are reminders on both the Emmons and the Winthrop. Many wet loose avalanches were spotted on the way up to and around Camp Schurman. The photo below shows wet loose avalanches off the south side of the Prow.

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