Muir Route Climbing Conditions Update

 

May 23^st, 2024

This blog is maintained by the MRNP Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

 

Overview

Winter of 2024 has brought slightly warmer than average temperatures, resulting in seasonable snowfall on the upper and mid mountain, with the lower mountain below average. Currently the snow line is at about 4,500 feet. There have been periods of warm clear days in both in April and in May allowing for climbers to successfully reach the summit, followed by periods of weather bringing in new snow to mid and upper elevations. The main hazards with the stormy spring include:

                +Avalanche hazard

                +White out conditions

                +And the typical hazards of rock fall and crevasse fall

 

Muir Route

The path to the Muir route up the Muir snowfield currently follows the winter trail above Paradise, ascends Panorama Face to gain the snowfield and continues to the climbers right of the summer trail. With new snowfall covering existing tracks navigation is made difficult and with models forecasting more storms to come, climbers should be prepared for navigating the Muir Snowfield and upper mountain in whiteout conditions.

Above Camp Muir the route has seen little traffic between weather openings and the climb to Cathedral gap is covered in snow. Climbers should be prepared to shorten their rope spacing after getting off the Cowlitz glacier in order to reduce risk of tangling ropes with other teams if a fall were to occur.

A view of Little Tahoma from Ingraham Flats

 The route above Ingraham Falls currently ascends the Disappointment Cleaver. The path is clear of any major cracks and gaining the Cleaver is straightforward. Here too teams should be ready to shorten rope spacing. There is a fixed line and carved foot path leading all the way across the exposed traverse to the Nose. From here an additional 500’ of fixed line follows a vertical boot pack. The path continues on snow with occasional exposed rock to the top of the cleaver.

The route above the cleaver has some fixed snow pickets in place. Inspect these before use and be sure to leave them in place, including the attached carabiners. Above 13,500’ the route cuts left towards the upper Ingraham Glacier. From here the route switchbacks a few times and moves along the south side of the crater rim. Currently there are a few major crevasse crossings over snow bridges and no ladders in place. Climbers should assess each snow bridge crossing on the way up and on the way down the mountain. For specifics on the climbing route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct

Large crevasses on the upper Disappointment Cleaver 

The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is scheduled to open on the weekend of May 24^th, with the Longmire Wilderness Information Center handling climbing permits on weekdays until May 30^th.  After which the PWIC will be open daily from 07:30-17:00. Till then climbers will continue self registration in the PWIC, at the self registration box. Also please remember to pay the annual climbing cost recovery fee.