Rangers departed Camp Muir this morning to check on the conditions of the Disappointment Cleaver route. Temperatures reached below freezing that night with a low at 29.0 Fahrenheit at Camp Muir which produced firm and efficient travel conditions. Winds were variable but increased to strong, on the upper mountain.
The Ingraham glacier had a few tracks but the glacier is widely broken around 11,700’. And most parties appear to be traveling via the Disappointment Cleaver route.
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| Ingraham and DC from Dunns Roll 5/13/24 |
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| Crevasse at 11,700’ on the Ingraham 5/11/24 |
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| Same Crevasse on the Ingraham on 5/13/24 |
As parties move from Ingraham Flats up towards the traverse out to the DC they will find a few crevasses beginning to pop out, the biggest being High Crack.
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| High Crack 5/13/24 |
Climbers will find fixed adjuncts as they climb onto the cleaver itself, these are intended for use but as always inspect before using at the sun's radiation can loosen passive protection in the snow.
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| Fixed adjuncts on the DC 5/13/24 |
The DC proper has very little rock exposed currently which creates smooth and efficient travel conditions.
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| Looking up the Dc 5/13/24 |
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| Looking down the DC towards Little Tahoma 5/13/24 |
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| Crevasse at 13,200’ 5/13/24 |
As always reference a
mountain weather forecast when making a trip plan for climbing on Mount Rainier. If you are staying at Camp Muir Rangers are always excited to chat with climbers regarding route conditions as well as weather info - or when you pass through the Wilderness Information Centers.
Lastly don’t forget that to climb above 10,000’ permits are required, this is being done as a self registration process at the old station at Paradise until Memorial Day weekend. Additionally each member will need to have paid the annual
Climbing Cost Recovery Fee.
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| Self Register at the Old Station, Labeled Paradise Ranger Station |
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| Climbers approaching Ingraham Flats 5/13/24 |
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