Disappointment Cleaver Conditions Update 7/4/23

    Rangers stationed at Camp Muir were able to get out and climb the route a few times over the BUSY July 4th weekend. Below we’ll highlight conditions as of July 4th but please understand that the mountain is an extremely dynamic environment. Rangers who climbed both Monday morning and Tuesday evening noticed route changes and crevasse openings that were not present the day before. Please use this update as a data point of information for your climb…

Old trenched-in trail leading left to crevasse that is rapidly opening up. A faint new trail to the right leads over a currently solid bridge for that crevasse. 7/4/2023

    

The route itself remains very “punched in”. There has been significant traffic between guide parties and independent teams alike, creating a trough at certain points leading to the summit. As mentioned earlier there are subtleties within the greater climb that are constantly evolving and presenting new hazards, but in general, the climbing route is in good shape. 

• As mentioned in earlier blog posts, Cathedral Gap is snow free and by now the Cleaver itself is snow free. We ask again that you please mitigate your team’s risk by not breaking underneath overhead exposure, shorten your the rope for travel in the rocks, and always wear your helmets.

• At high crack (just above Ingraham Flats) there remains a ladder that is both short and well placed. Use caution while crossing by having good rope spacing and communication. 

• Getting onto the backboard of the cleaver is fairly straightforward, though there is a significant bridge you cross just before you get onto the cleaver. When this goes, the transition to get onto the cleaver will likely become challenging, but for now, with good footwork and rope management, the entrance remains simple. The handline here is gone. Please don’t break in this zone until you are on the spine of the cleaver, free of overhead hazard! The trail along the spine is snow free aside from a small patch here and there. 

• Above the cleaver the route “zigzags” its way through icefall and crevasses until roughly 13,400 when the route traverses left almost all the way to the Nisqually! A pleasant break for tired legs but be prepared for the climb to be very direct after finishing the traverse. 

View of the switchbacks though crevasses above the cleaver

While the route is quite obvious and well-traveled as stated before, we like to remind folks that the trough is not always the best travel! Use YOUR discretion and safe judgement skills but understand that getting out of the trough trail, especially through bottlenecking chokepoints on the route is ok. With the ever-changing conditions on the route, sometimes the best way to cross a crevasse is to walk 20ft off the trail and around rather than leaping over a gaping crack! 

Those are the conditions as of right now on the DC! Teams have been enjoying stellar weather and good travel as of lately. Remember to check back periodically with our blog on condition updates and reread through past posts to review skill topics, tips, and tricks for safe climbing!