It has been a busy weekend on Mount Rainier. Climbers and
skiers have been attempting many routes and generally have reported good
conditions, albeit a bit warm with the 11,000-13,000’ freezing levels. Below
are a few updates on conditions we have received in the past 24 hours.
Kautz Glacier: Most parties are approaching the route via
the Wilson Gully and not The Fan. There are reports of running water at The
Castle, but this has varied day-by-day, so plan to melt snow for water.
Campsites are still almost entirely snow-covered at The Castle and Camp Hazard.
The rock step has refilled with blown-in snow and is only a short downclimb presently.
The upper pitches are thinly covered with snow (4-8”), making for fast climbing
and readily attainable ice screw protection. At the Wapowety Cleaver crossing
around 13,000’, there are a few ways of getting onto the upper Nisqually
Glacier, but these have been changing frequently.
Fuhrer Finger & Thumb: Both of these routes have been
skied and climbed in the last two days. The bergschrund is still quite
filled-in for both lines, though it is starting to become tricky on the Thumb.
Icefall from the Wilson Headwall has been reaching the altitude of the traverse
from The Castle to the base of these lines, so watch overhead and move
efficiently across this terrain. From the top of the couloirs, parties have
reported that there is a well-established track with smooth snow surfaces through
the upper Nisqually Glacier to the summit. Spontaneous, natural rockfall has
been reported in both gullies.
Tahoma Glacier: Reported to be very broken around the 10,000’
level with very difficult navigation through many open crevasses.
Liberty Ridge: Parties report gaining the ridge on the climber’s right side at the bottom. Good travel conditions along the route up to
the Black Pyramid, where a few hundred feet of knee-deep snow was found. The
bergschrund has one short section of overhanging snow to navigate at the top.
Ice screws were useful above Thumb Rock. Spontaneous, natural rockfall has been
reported on the lower ridge and at Thumb Rock.
Gibraltar Ledges: The approach from Camp Muir to the ledges remains readily climbable with multiple options. The ledges proper are are fairly melted out with lots of exposed rock and some water ice. Above the ledges, the Upper Gib Chute is still snow up to Camp Comfort. Lots of evidence of recent rockfall along the route.
Gibraltar Ledges: The approach from Camp Muir to the ledges remains readily climbable with multiple options. The ledges proper are are fairly melted out with lots of exposed rock and some water ice. Above the ledges, the Upper Gib Chute is still snow up to Camp Comfort. Lots of evidence of recent rockfall along the route.
Emmons Glacier: See this blog post
Ingraham Direct / Disappointment Cleaver: See this blog post
