Welcome to September!
As we move further into late summer season, conditions on the mountain have been rapidly transitioning from the snowfield to the summit. Here's a quick run down on what's going on right now and into the winter on the mountain:
Muir Snowfield:
As stated in the previous blogpost, all parties headed up the Muir Snowfield should be prepared for sections of bare-ice, flowing water, and crevasses large enough to fall into. Please be ready with traction devices for footwear such as micro-spikes or crampons, trekking poles, and gloves. These icy and crevassed sections can catch people off guard if not properly prepared. Be especially cautious if we get a fresh dusting of snow which can hide these hazards from view.
Camp Muir:
Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September, and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter. This makes conservative decision making during stormy weather important - there's no backup shelter to retreat to during lightning storms.
Significantly sized crevasses have opened up in camp and continue to grow with warm temperatures. This makes finding a campsite at Camp Muir difficult. Please plan on camping on the snow, double check that your site doesn't have crevasses underneath and isn't prone to rockfall, and bring a shovel or adze to flatten out the tent site. The crevasses near Camp Muir are now large enough a person can certainly fall in.
Please travel around camp with caution - there's been active rockfall on the ridges around camp and the danger of an unroped crevasse fall cannot be overstated.
Disappointment Cleaver Route:
The upper mountain swiftly moves into "late season" conditions with significant crevasse, serac fall, and rockfall hazard throughout the route.
All three guide services AAI, RMI and IMG have officially ceased guiding operations for the season, citing deteriorating conditions at the Cleaver entrance and upper route as the primary factors for this decision. They've pulled all of the route adjuncts - no more ladders, hand lines or "fixed-pickets" are in place right now. This means that any independent climbers must be prepared to navigate around large crevasse openings and prepared to protect steeper loose rock steps.
The entrance on to the Cleaver has been the primary limiting factor for both guided parties and independent parties alike due to significant objective hazard. A widening moat between the Cleaver and Ingraham Glacier at 11,400 feet coupled with excessive rockfall and poor footing poses a risk decision that climbing parties must assess for themselves.
Above the Cleaver, conditions have also continued to degrade without regular maintenance provided by the guide services. Independent teams should plan to navigate without relying on previously installed equipment and be prepared for complex route-finding and rapidly evolving hazards. There will not be wands on the route marking a way to the summit.
Late-season climbers should exercise heightened caution, assess conditions carefully, and have technical skills necessary for a truly independent and an unguided route. Good teamwork and conservative decision making are paramount for a successful trip on Mount Rainier.
