July 14th, 2024
This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.
During the month of July, Mt Rainier has been experiencing clear sunny weather with above average temperatures and freezing levels between 14,000-15,500 feet. Current hazards include:
+Thin Snow Bridges and Crevasse Falls
+Knee Strain/Strain and Lower Leg punctures by Crampon Points due to Soft Snow
+Dehydration
The approach to Glacier Basin is currently snow free and the Inter Glacier is still holding winter snow. When dropping from Camp Curtis to get on to the Emmons Glacier, be sure to rope up for glacier travel. Rangers have observed teams traveling this section to Camp Schurman without a rope, particularly when descending from camp. There are numerous large crevasses in this section.
The route has continued to follow the same path as the last week or two. Some things to consider are that with warm temperatures snow bridges have been continuing to thin. The existing "trail" goes over thin portions of numerous snow bridges which were robust a week ago, and are now beginning to sag, which is an early sign of impending collapse. Use discretion when crossing and do not hesitate to go off the boot pack to cross a thicker portion of the snow bridge.
Route as scene from Camp Shurman. Note yellow line indicating the 11,400 foot "plug" detailed bellow.
At least one snow bridge crossing should require additional attention at this time. This is the 11,400 foot "plug". It is a major bridge roughly the width of a dump truck and if it were to fail with a climber on it there is possibility for a major swing into the adjacent wall. Additionally, this crossing is long enough that more than one climber at a time could end up on it, both increasing the likelihood of collapse, and making a team arrest more difficult. Consider adding security when crossing this, particularly on the descent.
Side profile of the snow bridge at 11,400 feet. This image demonstrates the length; the width is about as wide as a dump truck. Use additional caution when crossing this. Or considering finding an alternative work around.
Please be sure to climb with "blue bags" on route. These can be disposed of at Camp Schurman at the designated barrel by the doors to the entrance of the restrooms. These can be picked up at the White River Wilderness Information Center (open every day from 7:30 am to 5:00 pm), the same location as where climbers pick up their climbing permits. Also, when there be sure to observe the printed-out photo of where tent platforms are allowed next to camp Schurman. For more information about climbing the Emmons route consult the Emmons-Winthrop Route Brief. Remember to pay for you annual climber's recovery free, found here.
