July 4th, 2024
This blog is maintained by the Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.
Overview
Winter of 2024 brought slightly warmer than average temperatures, resulting in average seasonable snowfall on the upper and mid mountain, with the lower mountain below average. Currently the snow line is at about 5,500 feet. Summer is here on Mount Rainier and temps have been back to average, with above average temperature forecasted for the week ahead. Crevasses are beginning to open up, but the climbing route is well established. Many teams have been reaching the summit by this point. Some of the hazards associated with higher temperatures include:
+ Rock fall/Icefall
+ Crevasse Bridge Collapse
+Dehydration
Muir Route
The path to Camp Muir up the Muir Snowfield currently follows the summer trail which is mostly snow free. Please pay special attention to trail markings and keep to the trail as we would like hikers and climbers to avoid trampling sensitive vegetation. Above Pebble Creek the route is snow covered.
Above Camp Muir the route has seen significant traffic, and the path is well marked and packed in. Climbers should be prepared to shorten their rope spacing after getting off the Cowlitz Glacier and before crossing Cathedral Gap, in order to reduce risk of tangling ropes with other teams and to minimize the risk of knocking rocks loose onto teams below.
The route above Ingraham Flats currently ascends the Disappointment Cleaver. The path is clear of any major cracks and gaining the Cleaver is straightforward. Here too, teams should be ready to shorten rope spacing. The Cleaver is approximately 50% covered in snow, and it is expected to melt out after this weekend's heatwave. Pay special attention for red flagged wands which mark the way here, as there are many old trails, some which may lead to dead ends.
The route above the Cleaver steepens as it ascends and switchbacks and has a handful of "fixed" snow pickets with webbing runners and carabiners attached. Please leave this gear for other teams to use. This gear is intended for clipping into and use as a running belay, meaning that rope team members continue to move in unison. Beyond the steep switchbacks with running protection, teams will encounter two ladders at 13,200 feet. Both options are viable, there are two ladders to reduce bottlenecking at this point. Note that there are fixed snow pickets in place that attach to the ladders, and some that are free. These free pickets both below and above the ladders are intended for rope teams to clip into and use as running protection. As always, be sure to evaluate any fixed gear as they are checked by guides when passing, but are subject to melting out. For specifics on the climbing route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham Direct
This portion of the route from 12,500-13,300 feet where the fixed adjuncts are in place is where bottlenecking is most likely to occur. If teams are backed up here it is advised to wait down below, or above in order to reduce teams lining up in this tight space and exposing climbers to ice fall and crevasse fall hazard. Beyond this portion the route is mostly direct to the crater rim. When descending from the summit consider spacing out from other teams to reduce the potential for backups here.
As always, don't just follow the boot pack blindly toward the summit. Look both climber's left and right for other options to ascend the mountain - even if the boot pack doesn't lead there. There are always multiple ways to climb Mount Rainier - just be sure to stay within your team's ability level and place fall-protection if things get steep!
The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00. Check in here before your climb to receive your permit, or to check for walk up availability and be sure to check out here at the end of trip. "Blue Bags" used for human waste can be picked up here. Also please remember to pay the Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee.
