June 13th, 2024
This blog is maintained by the MRNP Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.
Route:
The route is reported in good shape, with little changes from the route outlined in our previous post. Many parties had success climbing this week. There are three notable bridges that were mentioned by many climbers. These are located around 11,500 ft., 12,800 ft., and 13,600 ft. Some parties were able to summit going direct above the Alpine Meadow, but most chose to traverse right at 13,600 ft towards Liberty Saddle.
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| Photo of the Emmons-Winthrop on 06/09, with the current route outlined in black |
Additional Information:
- Please make sure tents are at minimum 100ft from the Helicopter Landing Zone (LZ). Climbers who are camped any closer to the LZ interfere with rescue operations. Helicopter rotorwash can be up to 60mph within the 100ft radius, causing any loose items and equipment to be blown into the air, and potentially into the helicopter - a huge safety issue. Even outside the 100ft zone, items can blow away. Make sure tents are secured (deadman your stakes/other tent anchors) and that you have no loose items around your camp. Climbers should be camping on snow on the Winthrop glacier side as the first available option. See below the appropriate areas for you to set up your camp.
Red: Do not camp here.
Orange: It's okay...but less preferred than the green.
Green: Awesome! See the old tent platforms for reference. You can even dig higher upslope than the green bubble. It makes collecting water easy, and you can be more protected from winds.- Skiers- please yield to uphill travelers. Climbers on foot always have the right-of-way, on the up and on the down. Skiers become the overhead hazard to anyone below them. Please plan your descent accordingly and be polite to others on the route.
- Please rope up for the lower Emmons approach to the prow. There is no difference between this portion of the route, and the route you climb out of camp. The crevasses are the same size and present the same hazard. Photos of the lower Emmons from this week vs. late season 2023 is attached below for reference.
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| Lower Emmons early season (above) |
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| Lower Emmons late season |
