The Emmons-Winthrop route saw quite a bit of guided and independent climbing traffic over the weekend! The commonly traveled route does have a pretty well defined boot track. However, skeletal ice is present from Emmons Flats to around 10,500 ft and the boot track can be easily lost. This area is characterized by frequent crevasse crossings, variable snow bridges, and even running water in spots! While this zone is currently navigable, your own judgement and route-finding skills are the key to efficient travel. Dynamic weather conditions will require diligent terrain assessment, especially on the descent when temperatures are warmer and climbers are tired from a long day on the hill.
The majority of the route remains very similar to our recent blog posts. There is a long climbers right traverse starting at ~12,200 ft. This traverse ends with a notable crossing at 12,300 ft characterized by a large step up and over the crevasse. Continue to evaluate this crossing as the weather remains warm and conditions change. From 12,300 ft to around 13,500 ft, the route meanders through some switchbacks and is rather straightforward. Around 13,500 ft., there is another long climbers' right traverse that heads to the saddle. As our last blog post states, there are likely other more direct routes out there if you care to find them. Of note, there was some fairly recent serac fall that crossed the boot pack on the 13,500 ft traverse. This is noted in the photos below. The debris that crossed the boot pack was softball to basketball sized.
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| Recent serac fall debris around 13,500 ft on the Emmons-Winthrop |
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| Serac chunks just above the 13,500 ft traverse |
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| A way up the Emmons Winthrop Route |
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Early morning light looking North from Camp Schurman
We hope to see you in the park and up on the mountain! |
