Disappointment Cleaver Updates 06/22

June-uary delivered a much-needed refresh to the mountain this week. The upper mountain remained above the clouds for most of the weather, but the Paradise side still saw 2-4” of new snow above Camp Muir.

Looking towards Muir from across the Cowlitz after the new snowfall. About 2" blankets the glacier. 06/20.

 The route is still well-wanded and well-maintained. Be sure to thank the guides for their route work. 

The route around 13000' before the recent snow. 06/17.

Handlines are in place to protect sections of the route with high-consequence falls. While it can be helpful to utilize the handline to increase your security, know that it is still your responsibility to evaluate the snow anchors holding the line, or any adjunct, into the mountain. These are currently set up on the north end of the Bowling Alley, and in a steep section around 13600’. As always, the established boot pack may not be the best route after changing conditions. Assess conditions and choose your route accordingly.

Track from the Rangers' climb on 06/17

CLEAVER CONSIDERATIONS:

• Proper rope management is required. If loose rock is present – get that rope off the ground! There are many ways to safely and properly manage the rope in these situations. Letting the rope drag along the ground is a guaranteed way to knock rocks down onto climbers below you. If you see teams traveling in full glacier intervals along the Cleaver, say something.
• To crampon or not to crampon? Previous sun and high freezing levels created bare and dry travel conditions on loose rock. In these cases, crampon use can hinder safe movement. The points of your crampons are hard to balance on uneven terrain and increase the likelihood of a trip and fall. Save those ankles! Take the time to remove crampons on longer sections of exposed rock. However, even when rocks appear to be bare and snow free, ice can still linger and create slick travel surfaces that require crampons. With the new moisture input this past week, this could be the case in the early mornings and on cold days. Always assess conditions and decide accordingly.

Midway up the Cleaver. 06/13/23

STAY TOGETHER. Too many parties have been splitting up recently. This is how many of our rescues start. You are a team. Do not leave a member of your party who cannot continue alone while the other climbers summit. Do not go off alone to tag the summit if the rest of your team cannot make it. If you leave your rope team, you are now a solo climber. Solo travel requires a special application.

All in all, the route is direct and in great shape. Be safe and have fun!

Route and Weather Resources:

Disappointment Cleaver Route Guide (nps.gov)

Mt Rainier Recreational Forecast (washington.edu)

7-Day Forecast 46.83N 121.71W (weather.gov)