Here is the first update of the 2023 season for the Emmons-Winthrop Route, just in time for the opening of the White River entrance on May 26th. In general, things are looking good through Glacier Basin, on the corridor and the upper Emmons-Winthrop route. The north-east side of the mountain has not been as significantly affected by the early season warm-ups and currently has solid snow coverage. The Glacier Basin trail is continuously snow covered starting at 5,300'. The Inter Glacier is well filled in and planar (read: will make for good skiing.)
At 12,300' the route contours west below a steep snow wall that gives way to a wide crack. After this contour, travel towards the summit involves navigating a few more large crevasses. At around 13,400', one last large crack can either be climbed through or end run west towards the saddle.
Although an ascent has been completed, there is by no means a defined or marked route up the Emmons-Winthrop. Snow conditions are cold and dry above 12,000' making for excellent cramponing, but create no evidence of travel. Those attempting the route should be certain they can find their way back down without relying on tracks. The cold snow is also concealing smaller cracks, so teams should implement glacier travel best practices even where cracks aren't obvious.
Lastly, both the Paradise Wilderness Information Center and the White River Information Center are open for the season. Their hours of operation are from 7:30am-5:00pm 7 days a week. This means that all parties who intend to ski or climb on a glacier and/or ascend above 10,000 feet on Mount Rainier need to obtain a climbing permit, In person at one of these ranger stations prior to your climb. Climbers are no longer able to self-register climbing permits before their trip.
