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| Crevasses starting to open and show historic snow layers. |
The Disappointment Cleaver route is now in "normal" August conditions. That means there are many large crevasses that must be end-run and significant rockfall hazard. This is nothing out of the ordinary for a DC climb at this time of year however.
From Camp Muir the route ascends into Cathedral Gap with just a few crevasses to mind. Rockfall potential does increase as the route nears the snow/rock transition, so we do not recommend parties stop when under the cliffs of Cathedral Rocks - both on the Cowlitz AND Ingraham transitions.
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| Climber admiring the "Canine Tooth" serac, just above the Cleaver. |
The ascent of Cathedral Gap is all rock so make sure to shorten the interval between climbers and pick the rope up out of the rocks. From the top of the Gap the route continues on rock for a few hundred meters and then transitions to the Ingraham Glacier and on into Ingraham Flats.
Above the Flats there is a single ladder installed at approximately 11,300’ (known as "high crack"). After crossing the ladder you’ll descend slightly before entering the Icebox and Bowling Alley area. Here there is significant overhead hazard and we recommend moving through this area as efficiently as possible.
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| Rope teams traversing out below the "Wisdom Tooth" right around 13,000'. |
Once your team has completely left the snow it’s best to either quickly shorten the rope interval between climbers or move quickly to the crest of the ridge and reset the rope there. Either way your goal here is to ascend the lower third of the Cleaver without dislodging rocks on climbers below and staying on route.
The Cleaver is marked with wands and after navigating the labyrinth of the lower third the route regains the ridge crest and the climbing becomes more straightforward. The top of the Cleaver will be the last rocks you encounter before the Crater Rim.
From the top of the Cleaver to the summit the route end-runs several massive crevasses and even descends around them in a few places. The guides have placed fixed protection for running belays in several places so familiarize yourselves with using this technique before you encounter them on the route. Tooth-like seracs are looming over the route in certain places - don't linger below these detached icy features!
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| Most recent track log of the DC Route. |
Other than a few steep sections the climbing on this part of the route is quite pleasant and not too long, distance-wise, for August.
Always remember to leave early and keep plenty of gas in the tank for the descent. Descending on a warm summer day can be extremely hot and fatiguing and many climbers have mentioned that they wish they got an earlier start upon returning to Camp Muir.
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| Upper mountain photo taken from the top of the Cleaver. |
Above all, be safe and have fun!
