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| Little Tahoma and the lower Emmons Glacier |
Camp Schurman was relatively quiet this week despite several days of great weather. The route to the top is still climbing well, and climbers can expect an exciting and engaging climb above camp. The Inter Glacier has several crevasses, so roping up is recommended here. Check out this previous post for great beta on the
approach to Camp Schurman.
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| The Inter Glacier has crevasses and exposed ice in spots. Glissading is not recommended. |
The snow on the lower half of the route is quite firm and a little icy in spots, so rangers recommend that each party bring a couple of ice screws for running protection or anchors. The upper half of the route still has plenty of snow, and pickets are essential equipment for building anchors on the upper mountain. Make sure your climbing team has both pickets and ice screws for your climb.
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| A rough representation of the Emmons-Winthrop climbing route. |
From Camp Schurman, the section of glacier leading to Emmons Flats is quite broken. The boot pack still takes a good line through here, but expect to meander a bit around crevasses. Above Emmons Flats, the track wastes no time climbing to the Corridor. Getting onto the Corridor, climbers will cross a large crevasses that is spanned by a long, narrow snow bridge. Give this bridge a look before crossing it. Rangers found another snow bridge about 100 feet higher that works as well.
Once on the Corridor, climbers will find firm snow and a boot pack that winds up along sun cups. There are numerous crevasses cutting through the Corridor, so be on your game and pay attention. Evaluate each crevasse crossing for snow bridge integrity before committing to crossing it. Often, a better crevasse crossing or end run is only a short distance from the existing boot pack.
Once your team nears the top of the Corridor, expect a section of steep and exposed climbing leading to the "Alpine Meadow." The fall consequence here is severe, so place pickets or screws to protect your team across this section. The boot pack across the Alpine Meadow dead ends in several places where old snow bridges have fallen in. Be observant here and look for ways to end run crevasses or cross where the snow bridges are thick.
Remember to probe the bridges with your ice axe and communicate with your party members before crossing suspect snow bridges. A partner who is not paying attention won't be much help arresting a fall should a snow bridge collapse.
Above 12,400 feet, the climbing becomes more straightforward as the route heads towards Liberty Saddle. Solid footwork is essential here. The steep, planar snow surface would accelerate a falling climber very quickly. On the traverse towards Liberty Saddle, the boot pack is in good condition, and the route is quite efficient. Above the saddle, continue climbing up towards the crater rim. First you'll see the edge of the west crater rim, then a little higher, the true summit.
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| The boot pack leading towards Liberty Saddle. Liberty Cap can be seen center right. |
With the adventurous route finding, and potential for running belays, be prepared for a long summit day. An early start will allow your team to descend before the hot summer sun weakens snow bridges on the descent. Climb with plenty of water, or a stove to melt snow along the way. Bring ice screws, pickets, and crevasse rescue gear on your climb. August is a great time to experience solitude on the upper mountain, but don't forget to enjoy the wildflowers on the hike out as well!
