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| Looking across Ingraham Flats towards the summit. 6/17/19 |
A more direct variation of the upper Disappointment Cleaver Route has been established by the guide services. The new variation avoids the initial route's long westerly traverse to Camp Comfort. To access the variation, follow the lower route through the Cleaver as described in the June 9th post. A few hundred yards above the cleaver the route will split. The East (climber’s right) path is the newly established, direct route. See photo below.
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Initial route traverses left below the icefall, the new variation switchbacks just right of center of the photo (Taken from top of Disappointment Cleaver) 6/17/19
Both variations are free of any ladders or boards as of now. However, there are substantial cracks at 13,700 and 12,800 that require careful, focused crossing. The lower third of the Cleaver is still fairly loose, so be sure to take coils in to prevent your rope from generating rock fall. There is a hand line in place at the base of the Cleaver. It is not intended to be used as a fixed line so do not prussik to the line.
There has been consistent rockfall just out of camp on the Cowlitz Glacier, in Cathedral Gap, and on the traverse to the base of the Cleaver. Remember to take breaks in more protected areas and move quickly through areas with overhead hazard.
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