This blog is maintained by the Climbing Rangers for use by recreational non-guided climbers and skiers. Use these reports as a baseline but plan for changing conditions.
Multiple parties have made attempts on Ptarmigan Ridge over the past few weeks with only one successful climb. Photos taken on 6/19/25 show an overview of the area and current snow and ice coverage on the route.
These photographs were taken by an independent party of 3 that opted not to climb due to the current conditions on the route
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The Emmons Winthrop route is still in good shape and has seen many successful ascents and descents in the past week.
The trail to glacier basin is mostly snow free with a few patches of stubborn snow the final mile before. Above glacier basin there are various boot packs up the inter glacier to Camp Curtis. The Inter Glacier still has decent snow coverage from the winter with on fern ice on 6/18. There are a few open moats around the various nunataks, but no open crevasses were observed.
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| Looking up at the Inter Glacier from the moraine above glacier basin |
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| A route to the Summit on 6/14/25 |
Although there is a well-established boot pack on a majority of the route climbers are encouraged to evaluate changing conditions and deteriorating snow bridges and make their own decisions on the best/safest path when necessary. There are a few points on the route where the well-trodden "path" crosses a marginal snow bridge. Safer crossings can be found by looking around to a less traveled area where a more robust bridge can be utilized or a crevasse can be end run.
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| Crevasses at 11,400' - 6/14/2025 |
This last weekend we saw many descents by skiers and split boarders. When we talked with these parties on the route and back at Schurman many skiers used terms such as "bad skiing", "rugged", and "highly variable" when describing their descent. Many also reported carrying their equipment back down the mountain a distance before reaching a point they wanted to ski/board from. Further, rangers repeatedly observed riders get off their intended descent route at ~12,000ft landing them well above the corridor in broken and crevassed terrain.
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| Boot pack at 13,400 - 6/14/2025 |
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| Overview of the Emmons route from Camp Schurman - 6/14/2025 |
If you are planning for a ski/board descent of the Emmons come prepared for variable surface conditions consisting of, sun cups, Penitentes, ice, and Sastrugi. If you are expecting planer surfaces and good corn skiing on the upper mountain you may be disappointed and find yourself in more challenging conditions. Carful route-finding is even more paramount when descending on skis due to the faster speed at which riders encounter terrain and a lack or rope to arrest a fall.
If your team is planning on un-roping and riding down the mountain be thinking about your rope strategy... If you only have one rope for the team and the person who is carrying the rope falls into a crevasse, what is your plan??
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| The north side of Rainier 6/17/25 |
Climbing traffic has slowed down on the north side routes of Rainier over the last week due to changing route conditions and difficulty accessing some routes.
Liberty Ridge: Climbers have reported bailing from the approach to Liberty Ridge in recent days after having difficulty accessing the ridge from the Carbon glacier. Parties have reported a lack of adequate snow coverage on Liberty Ridge, which is typical for late June. Navigating the upper Carbon glacier has been difficult as well, with numerous open crevasses, necessitating circuitous travel.
Ptarmigan Ridge: Parties were successful on Ptarmigan in early June. There have been no reports of successful summits on this route over the last two weeks. Note that Ptarmigan ridge must be accessed from the White River campground this year due to the Mowich lake road closure.
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| Liberty Ridge (left) and Ptarmigan Ridge (center) on 6/17/25 |
Overview
With the summer solstice fast approaching, climbers have been experiencing long days and ample sunshine as many ascend the Disappointment Cleaver Route. We’re in a transitional period between spring and summer weather and snow conditions with changes occurring at every elevation on the mountain, from the lower slopes of Paradise to the summit.
A low-pressure system will move into the region over the next few days, bringing the potential for significant wind, precipitation, dropping temperatures, poor visibility, and obscured hazards. Always be prepared for wintery conditions, even on a daytrip up the Muir snowfield. The main hazards associated with this time of year include:
Rapidly changing and unpredictable weather, including whiteout and wintery conditions
Overhead hazard from rock and serac fall
Thin snow bridges over crevasses
Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
Some notes about the approach to Camp Muir:
On the way up from Paradise, please stick to the Summer Trail if it’s melted out and snow if there is no obvious dirt/rock trail. There are occasional markers on the lower snow "trails" beneath Panorama Point to indicate the Summer Trail. Please avoid trampling the fragile alpine wildflowers and other vegetation.
There is water flowing from Pebble Creek above Panorama Point and we recommend filtering it if you plan to drink it.
Be ready to navigate the Muir Snowfield in whiteout conditions.
Above Camp Muir:
The National Park Service does not maintain the route; however, local guiding services do significant route-work and keep it well-marked with reflective wands. There is rock and serac fall debris scattered throughout the beginning of the climb above Camp Muir, most notably throughout the Ingraham Flats (see earlier posts about 5/19 Serac Fall) and the "Bowling Alley". Attempting to pass rope teams in these zones will not likely save time and instead it can cause tangled ropes amongst the massive ice blocks in the Flats. There are several crevasses to navigate leading up to the DC so plan rope lengths and teams accordingly. This is one of the many places to move swiftly on the route to mitigate the risks of overhead hazard.
Looking back on the Ingraham Glacier from the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. The “Bowling Alley” and debris from the 5/19 Serac Fall can be seen.
The DC itself is fully melted out and it primarily involves rock travel. Remember to use careful footing and don’t let your rope drag on the ground through this section; avoid sweeping rocks down on parties beneath you. The uphill party is responsible for mitigating this avoidable rockfall hazard. If you’re concerned about kicking rocks down on other parties, simply stop moving and wait for the area below you to be clear of people before you continue. Communicate and be patient.
There are currently no ladders on the route. There is a fixed-line (to be used for balance only, do not fully weight it) and several snow pickets that are maintained by the guides–use your discretion with this gear and please don’t remove any carabiners or equipment. There are complex crevasses and snow bridges to navigate above the cleaver, especially on the steeper transitions in slope angle. With warming afternoon temperatures, be observant on the descent for any snow-bridge sagging or significant changes in route conditions. Skiing on the upper DC route would be quite bad due to surface conditions (penitentes), and a fall would be consequential because of the major crevasse crossings and exposure.
In such a dynamic environment, give yourself a large margin for error with the incoming weather system. Track conditions and stay flexible if you’re planning to climb the mountain to celebrate the longest day of the year. Thanks for reading and remember to thank the guides for all of the hard work they do on the route!
Several independent and guided parties moving across the upper mountain, seen from the top of the Disappointment Cleaver.
Additional Information
Remember to Leave No Trace on the mountain (and in the Camp Muir Public Shelter).
A climbing permit and Payment of the Climbing Cost and Recovery Fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on Mount Rainier National Parks Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm.
The E/W Route has really come into great shape this June. Both skiers and climbers alike have found straightforward navigation up the glacier and crevasses that are easy to end-run or cross.
Starting from the trailhead at White River Campground, the trail is mostly snow free until about 1/2 mile from Glacier Basin Campground. From Glacier Basin, expect snowy conditions on the Inter Glacier. The crevasses on the Inter Glacier haven't started to show and the firm glacial ice has yet to melt out. Rockfall early in the morning when the snow surface is firm might be the biggest hazard right now on the Inter Glacier.
Climber and skiers headed to Camp Schurman and up to the higher pitches on the mountain should veer off the Inter Glacier and onto the Emmons Glacier at around 9200', just above Camp Curtis. Don't get suckered into following tracks to the top of Steamboat Prow.
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| Looking down at Camp Schurman and the Streamboat Prow - the red line depicts the approach to Camp Schurman from the Inter Glacier at about 9200 feet. |
Above Camp Schurman the route is in incredible shape. Fairly planar and direct up the corridor, an easy traverse from the top of the corridor at about 11,800' towards the upper Winthrop, and then general switchbacks up and right until Liberty Saddle. Above Liberty Saddle, about 13,600', the surface conditions deteriorate with ice and sastrugi making for poor skiing conditions and tricky cramponing.
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| Switchback up to Liberty Saddle, fairly planar snow. |
As always, and especially with the hot weather we're experiencing right now, major route changes can occur with glacial movement and the surface conditions of the glaciers can vary drastically depending on the time of day.
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| Looking up towards the summit from Liberty Saddle. |
The weather over the last week has brought mostly sunny days, moderate temperatures for this time of year with freeze levels bouncing between 9-11k, and consistent north winds providing for generally pleasant climbing conditions. Still, a few brief systems have rolled through as reminders to stay prepared for wintry weather and whiteout navigation, though little new snow has accumulated. Long days and warm weather as we head into summer continue melt and change surface conditions daily.
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| From Panorama Point looking across the Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers at the aproach to the Kautz. |
As of 6/01/2025 the approach to the Kautz from Paradise is still predominantly snow, starting at the parking lot. Crossing the lower Nisqually glacier and gaining the Wilson bench is straightforward currently and climbers' have options as to how they would like to reach the Turtle snowfield. There have been few days with freeze level below 9K recently and snow conditions are changing rapidly at low elevations. Be wary of soft and sagging snow bridges over crevasses, as well as overhead cornice and rockfall potential. As a reminder, the lower Nisqually and Wilson are glaciated terrain and traveling roped up is always recommended.
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| The Turtle snowfield and camp Hazard looking up from the Castle at 9k' |
From the Castle up the ridgeline along the Turtle to the rock step, multiple camp sites/tent pads are starting to melt out and running water is occasionally found in the rocks, but water maybe unavailable if the freezing level is low. The rock step is melted out with 15' of traversing downclimb to reach snow. There was a handline in place on 6/01/25, however never trust your life to fixed gear without inspecting the anchor and rope quality first and be prepared to manage this feature on your own. Traversing from the rock step into the main Kautz chute is moderate snow currently, however the traverse moves under seracs that require attention.
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| The rock step looking forward |
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| The rock step looking back, 10-15' of traversing-down climbing to a snow ledge. |
The Kautz chute is currently steep snow through the first pinch, ~50 degrees, but a few more warm days may melt this down to glacier ice. The second and final step of the chute was one pitch of AI2 and steep snow. A light rack of pickets, several ice screws, and two axes were useful for this pitch. Above the chute the route continues into low angle glacier walking towards the Wapowety Cleaver. There are several large cracks in this 12-13k' zone that are bridged currently allowing for direct travel but may require long end runs as they melt out.
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| The Kautz chute from the rock step. The lower pinch is still snow while the upper requires a pitch of AI2 climbing. |
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| Steep snow leading into the ice pitch of the upper chute. |
Above the Wapowety cleaver, climber's currently have the option to head climber's left towards Point Success through the steep snow of the upper Kautz, or climber's right onto the upper Nisqually glacier and towards the Columbia Crest through lower angle terrain. Moving off the Wapowety Cleaver onto the Nisqually may increase in difficulty as the moat along the cleaver melts and widens.
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| Low angle glacier travel of the upper Kautz below the Wapowety Cleaver. |
