Emmons/Winthrop Route Update

 After a stormy Memorial Day weekend, the route remains in great shape for climbers.  The approach to Glacier Basin continues to melt out and there's more trail than snow now, and the snow patches that are present have a fairly consolidated boot pack for reasonable walking.  Be cautious on bridges where melting snow has created a potentially hazardous crossing.  See photo below for an example.  

Depending on the weather - the Inter Glacier can either be a skier's paradise, with over 3500 feet of planar snow at an average of 25 degrees, or a nightmare with the reflective heat of the sun roasting folks with huge packs trying to ascend or storm clouds reducing visibility to near zero with precipitation turning the snow to bottomless slush.  All of these conditions occurred during the last holiday weekend and it's worth noting that skiers will have to recognize when conditions are great for skiing or when it's dangerous to be travelling on skis through this terrain.  

The glaciers above high camp continue to offer many routes to the summit.  There's the classic route up the Emmons Corridor, crossing over to the Alpine Meadow and then traversing up and right to the summit, Columbia Crest.  An alternative route traverses right out of camp to the Winthrop Glacier, ascends a steep snow slope to the Winthrop Shoulder and then directly up the shoulder to the summit crater.  With guide services ascending the route for the first time this week, a boot pack should be established, but expect some route finding and keep a track log for your own navigation purposes.  Wands are not allowed to be left on this route - so any guide service or independent who places wands on their ascent will take them on their descent.  

Surface conditions above Camp Schurman continue to be transitioning from a "winter" snowpack to a more "spring" style snowpack.  This transition makes for breakable crusts, sastrugi, scoured icy sections and unconsolidated mush - challenging ski conditions - especially when considering the crevasse fall potential associated with skiing on the glaciers.  Look for the best skiing conditions lower on the mountain - the lower Cowlitz Glacier, Little Tahoma, the Inter Glacier and in the Tatoosh.