Monday, August 12, 2024

Disappointment Cleaver Update 8/12/24

 

August 12th, 2024

This blog is maintained by the Mount Rainier National Park Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Since the last route update on 8/2/24 Mount Rainier has experienced seasonably warm temperatures with a brief spell of rain up to 12,000 feet on 8/9/24. There has been little that has changed on the route other than that existing snow bridges are continuing to thin. Additionally, there are now two boarded ladders above Ingraham Flats.

There is a section with fixed rope leading to a ladder at 12,800ft and a double ladder at 13,200ft. Both of these places are causing bottlenecking. One strategy to alleviate congestion is to coordinate with other climbing teams in order to space out. If a backup is observed at these sights, consider waiting at a location above or below these sites that are free of overhead hazard while teams make their way through.


Photo of the portion with a ladder at 12,800ft as seen from the top of Disappointment Cleaver. Note the three climbers, the top one is on the ladder.


For specifics on the climbing route please reference the NPS route briefing packet- Disappointment Cleaver- Ingraham DirectClimbers should check in for their permits at the Paradise Wilderness Information Center, which is open seven days a week from 7:30am- 5pm. Also, please be sure to check out after completing your climb.