Parties continue to summit via the DC as summer finally feels like it's arrived for this holiday weekend! Be prepared to route find and problem solve as the route up may differ from the route down due to changing conditions, which is typical for glacial mountaineering routes. Guide services have installed a horizontal ladder to cross a crevasse as 12,900', above the cleaver. There's still a handline along the nose of the cleaver as well. As the route continues to change, more adjuncts like ladders, "fixed" pickets and handlines may be added and/or removed. Use all of these adjuncts at your own risk. Just because a climbing party or guide used that adjunct before does not mean that it continues to be safe to use as the anchors can melt out or the angle of the glacier can change. Often times any route adjunct can be climbed around or bypassed, so look critically at the route as you ascend to find the safest course
Climbers will note an alternative reroute to the route on the DC at around 12,900' that links back to the 'main' route around 13,800'. This alternative ascends climber's right toward the Emmons Shoulder and avoids many crevasse crossings that the direct route crosses. As the summer moves on remember that with ever changing conditions - numerous snow bridged crevasses exist throughout the route - use good decision making to navigate safely - and if the conditions or route doesn't seem safe for ALL of the folks in your party to ascend, definitely turn around.
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| 7/2/2025 - 12,900' bridged crevasse |
We have had multiple instances of crevasse falls from independent climbers over the last few weeks-
rangers have been seeing a wide spectrum of preparation and knowledge on the mountain. As a reminder, knowing how to perform crevasse rescue effectively with the appropriate gear is paramount. - always have a plan for how to handle self-rescue in the event of an emergency.
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| 7/2/2025 - Current Route Alternatives |
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| 7/2/2025 - Penitentes near the top of the Cleaver |