Climbing Rangers got on the ice pitches of the Kautz on Wednesday and they are in excellent condition. Even if you don't go or make it to the summit, the ice pitches of the Kautz can be an excellent outing to sneak in some ice climbing in August and September.
The Rangers took the Wilson Gulley to approach the Castle. Be sure to move through the rock fall hazard efficiently if you choose to go this way. It may not be an option much longer this season. The fan has been completely melted out for a while now. Consider the Comet Falls to Van Trump approach; you gain more elevation this way, but it's more of a hike and has no overhead hazard.
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| Wilson Gulley to Wilson Bench on Tuesday 8/1/23 |
There is heaps of water flowing at the Castle bivy sites and some at the upper bivies before the rock step, at least from the heat of the day to the evening. Rangers did find a number of abandoned blue bags around the bivy sites that they had to carry down. Please remember to carry out your human waste to help keep these sites and the water source clean.
The rock step was about as easy at it gets this time of year, but once a small patch snow at the bottom melts away, it will present a more significant and challenging down climb. Even now we would still recommend setting up a belay for the descent and ascent out of there for the move to step off the rock is quite exposed.
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Looking from the bottom of the Rock Step at the Kautz Ice pitches and the traverse over to the base 8/2/23
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The traverse onto the Kautz did not have as many hanging seracs as it has had in the past, but that will likely change soon and it would still be good to move efficiently through here as you will see from signs of recent rock fall. Check the moat as you move off the rock onto the Glacier for this could present a hazard as well. The ice pitches themselves present varying levels of challenge depending on what line you choose. The giant penitente there offer excellent pro for the accent and quick bollard anchors for the descent. Still be sure to bring a number of ice screws as well for protection, you can find some proper ice amongst the penitente.
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| Looking up the ice pitches and through the giant penitente. The gulley in the center is easier, while you could find more challenging ice steps on the sides of the gully. |
If you descend through Van Trump, be sure to stop and smell some of the flowers that are coming out. And please remember to leave the wilderness better than you find it by packing out your own trash and any microtrash you may find. We look forward to seeing you on the mountain.
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Looking up from Van Trump to Kautz on 8/3/23
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