Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/9/23

Rangers were on the DC route this past Sunday July 7th and were stationed at Camp Muir for the last several days. The route continues to evolve with our warm and dry weather pattern we have been having. We are continuing to notice large changes in the route sometimes only a day or two apart. The biggest thing that was observed however was consistent rockfall from both sides of Cathedral Rock area and the Bowling Alley feature. Multiple large rock fall occurrences were observed during both warm daylight hours and early morning hours before the sun starts to warm things up. The risk from these hazards grows with greater exposure so efficiency and timing are the key factors here... 

Sunrise on 7/9/23

The route itself remains very “punched in”. There has been significant traffic between guide parties and independent teams alike, creating a trough at certain points leading to the summit. There are subtleties within the greater climb that are constantly evolving and presenting new hazards, but in general, the climbing route is in good shape. 

• As mentioned in earlier blog posts, Cathedral Gap is snow free and by now the Cleaver itself is snow free. We ask again that you please mitigate your team’s risk by not breaking underneath overhead exposure, shorten your the rope for travel in the rocks, and always wear your helmets.
• The entrance onto the Ingraham glacier has some very large crevasses opening up, these may pose route finding difficulties as the season progresses but for now the route stays fairly direct through this area. Guide services have places pickets to aid in the safety of this portion.

• At high crack (just above Ingraham Flats) there remains a ladder that is both short and well placed. Use caution while crossing by having good rope spacing and communication. 

• Getting onto the backboard of the cleaver is fairly straightforward, though there is a significant bridge you cross just before you get onto the cleaver. The handline here is gone. Please don’t break in this zone until you are on the spine of the cleaver, free of overhead hazard! The trail along the spine is snow free aside from a small patch here and there. 

• Above the cleaver the route “zigzags” its way through icefall and crevasses until roughly 13,400 when the route traverses left almost all the way to the Nisqually! A pleasant break for tired legs but be prepared for the climb to be very direct after finishing the traverse. 

Ladder over 'High Crack', 7/9/23

    Rangers have been noticing a fair amount of congestion and bottlenecking on the upper mountain in particular. Often our team was able to observe groups crossing ropes and climbing directly above another team without communicating effectively to the other party. These maneuvers present risk to all parties involved and great care should be taken when attempting to pass a group. Making sure that all parties are stationed in a safe stopping point and have good footing is a bare minimum. 

Groups on the upper part of the DC 7/9/23

While the route is wanded and often easy to follow, we like to remind folks that the trough is not always the best travel! Use YOUR discretion and safe judgement skills but understand that getting out of the trough trail, especially through bottlenecking chokepoints on the route is ok. With the ever-changing conditions on the route, sometimes the best way to cross a crevasse is to walk 20ft off the trail and around rather than leaping over a gaping crack! 

Large Crevasses opening below Ingraham Flats 7/9/23

Those are the conditions as of right now on the DC! Teams have been enjoying stellar weather and good travel as of lately. Remember to check back periodically with our blog on condition updates and reread through past posts to review skill topics, tips, and tricks for safe climbing!