Emmons-Winthrop
Consistent with our last blog post, the route climbed (red line) on 5/28 is very direct, going directly up and over two large cracks that have solid (for now) steep snow plugs. There was a notable crux at ~12,500’ that required climbers to front point and utilize axes in dagger position over a 20' section of AI 2/3. Beyond this, the route went directly to the crater rim, passing several zones of notably steep snow. This additional exposure can be avoided via a less steep option (green line) traversing out right on lower angle slopes underneath the icefall near ~13,200’, This would take climbers to the saddle between the top of Curtis Ridge and the summit. From here, one can gain the summit on the western facing, low angle slope from the saddle with minimal exposure compared to the direct route.
Snow surfaces from the summit to 12'500' were variable with intermittent sections of compact windboard, sastrugi, glacial ice and rough corn. This terrain is relatively steep, and a fall would not have a desirable outcome. Something to consider when skiing the Emmons is that while most glaciers have cross-slope cracks, the Corridor also has longitudinal cracks on either side!
Rangers visited the Success Couloir for an investigatory patrol. Rangers approached via Comet Falls, finding intermittent snow along the trail, which made for less than efficient travel. Continuous snow was found at ~5,000', where one can navigate up through the forest and continue toward the Success Glacier via Van Trump Park. A final, consequential traverse across well-covered snow slopes delivers prospective climbers to the ridge on the eastern edge of the Success Glacier at 8,000'. Upon arriving at camp, clouds lifted, and Rangers were able to assess conditions up high in greater detail.
Utilizing a monocular, Rangers observed deep runnels, chicken heads, and evidence of recent rockfall in Success Couloirs. Snow was discontinuous and would require climbing through several rock bands. Significant rock and ice fall events crossed much of the Success Glacier. Other ambitious skiers came through, ascending 300' into the couloir until they came to the the conclusion that they shouldn’t continue, reporting "heinous" conditions on the route. Ultimately, between this and conditions found in the Fuhrer Finger recently, it seems that the south side of the mountain is highly sun affected above 8,000'. Mid elevation slopes still hold excellent snow to about 5,800'.
That's the conditions report for this week! Hope to see everyone out there!