Emmons-Winthrop 5/29/19

View of Camp Schurman & Steamboat Prow from 11,000ft. 

Stormy conditions over Memorial Day weekend kept crowds to a minimum on the east side of Mt. Rainier but high pressure building over the week/weekend will undoubtedly bring many climbers to Camp Schurman and up the Emmons. As of 5/28, cloud caps, new snow instabilities and thinly covered crevasse bridges had kept anyone from the top of the route but multiple parties found success in the later part of the week.

A view of the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers from atop Steamboat Prow.

Memorial Day weekend storms dropped significant precipitation (up to 50cm) accompanied by strong winds that left the route blanketed in snow and many crevasses covered up by thin bridges. There were multiple incidents and reports of climbers punching through bridges that showed no evidence of their existence. As freezing level continue to rise throughout the weekend, climbers should pay extra attention to the boot pack they are following as bridges soften and crevasse fall hazards increase.

Teams leaving camp Schurman for the top.

Weather forecasts have been fairly accurate over the last few days calling for calm, clear skis in the morning and thunderstorms in the evening. Despite the ideal early morning and afternoon climbing weather, these thunder cells have grown rapidly and intensely as they move up onto the mountain by mid afternoon. Climbers should plan accordingly to be back off the route before these storms move in and should take head as they start to see signs of cumulus buildup.

A tracklog photo from Camp Shurman to the summit. Notice the route climbs
"the Corridor" on the Emmons Glacier before traversing north around 12,300"
in order to link up & ascend the Winthrop Shoulder. Again at 13,600" the
 route cuts climbers right towards Liberty Saddle and on to the summit.

Under current conditions, multiple routes to the top of the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers exist for those that are willing to route find on their own. The 'standard' route has been taking climbers up the corridor, across the Alpine Meadow, up the Winthrop Shoulder and traversing out towards Liberty Saddle. Slight variations will undoubtedly occur on a regular basis as last week's snow sees it's first major warm up. Climbers should stay heads-up on their climb, keeping an eye out for sagging bridges, holes in the boot pack and fissures on the snow surface. Sunny skies and moderate winds over the weekend will no doubt build for one of the better climbing windows of the 2019 summer season thus far!