Happy New Year!
A stretch of relatively clear weather is currently forecast between January 13 and January 20, and we want to take a moment to share current conditions and several important considerations for anyone planning a winter climb of Mount Rainier.
Winter Weather Windows and Climb Success
Statistically, dry weather windows like this occur most years between mid-January and mid-February. Historically, there is a noticeable increase in summit success during this period, often peaking around the third week of January. Success rates during these windows can approach typical summer averages of 55–60%.
However, the devil is in the details.
Winter climbing on Mount Rainier is inherently difficult to plan. While these short weather windows do occur, they tend to favor climbers who live locally, have flexible schedules, and—most importantly—have significant experience on the mountain during the regular climbing season.
For teams with limited experience in glaciated terrain or winter alpine conditions, this may not be an appropriate time to attempt your first climb. Let's dive deeper.
Access and Permits
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Please arrive having already paid your climbing fee: here.
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Wilderness permits are issued via self-registration in the foyer of the small A-frame ranger station at the upper Paradise parking lot.
Facilities and Emergency Infrastructure
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The public shelter at Camp Muir is closed. The door is boarded and locked. Planned repair work was not completed in the fall.
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Access to the shelter is emergency-only and requires using the emergency radio to contact dispatch. Declaring an emergency to gain access will initiate a rescue response.
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The emergency radio has been relocated to the first restroom building nearest the helipad.
Equipment and Self-Sufficiency
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Bring the full complement of winter or arctic camping gear necessary to remain self-sufficient—even if your plan is to camp only at Camp Muir.
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Leave the parking lot with detailed maps, whether digital or paper.
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If relying on a phone, bring an external battery, use airplane mode, and save social media posting until after your climb.
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Search and Rescue Realities
It is critical to understand how winter rescue differs from summer operations:
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During the summer season, climbing rangers are staffed daily and often stationed at Camp Muir and Camp Schurman, with dedicated training and aviation support.
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This infrastructure does not exist in winter.
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Reaching an injured climber may take a full day or many more, even in favorable weather. In some cases, depending on location, conditions, and weather, no team may be able to respond for several days.
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The park does not maintain an exclusive-use helicopter contract during the winter.
Avalanche Conditions
Finally, stay tuned in to the snowpack. Use the skills you learned in your US Level 1 and 2 courses.
- Although we've suffered through extreme weather events in the last three months, both droughts and atmospheric rivers, there is A LOT of new snow on Mount Rainier.
- The high elevation of Mount Rainier presents its own unique avalanche phenomena neither exactly like continental nor maritime environments!
- Pan Point is a little confusing as there is a lack of snow. I think the normal winter gulley is the good call. The summer trail is steep and there is a nice cliff under the traverse track making the consequences of a fall rather dire!
- Conditions were smooth as the sun worked its magic up to about 7500.
- 7500 onwards the snow became increasingly firm.
- By 9000’, yeah it was kind of terrifying. Definitely recommend ski crampons.
- Took off skis at 9800 and booted it the last 200’
- Muir is “iced-in”. All that moisture from a month ago is water ice all over Muir.
- It took me 10 minutes to make my way over to the public shelter from the ranger station! I recommend crampons or micro-spikes just making your way around Muir.
- The toilet is iced-in. I recommend blue bagging your waste so grab those at Paradise before you head up!
- I’ll post some photos here when I make it back down tonight.