Friday, July 03, 2026

Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 7/3/2026


The Disappointment Cleaver has been holding together, and parties have been making it to the summit in fairly reasonable times.  Two days ago, the guide services did some route work and put in a new route up the shoulder of the Emmons Glacier.  This new variant starts just above the top of the Disappointment Cleaver and instead of going climber's left towards the top of Gibraltar Rock, it spurs off to climber's right and then ascends to the crater rim.  

Like most glaciated climbs - the route can change day to day and even hour to hour. Just because a snow bridge or a ladder was intact and you crossed it on the way up to the summit does not mean that it'll be there when you descend. Consider alternatives as you ascend - especially at critical points like a crevasse bridge.  Often, pioneering a new descent path can take more advanced skills and/or abilities than those required to ascend. 

Expect to do some route finding of your own as the temps warm into the hottest months of the summer.  Snow melts away from the rocky ridges and the glaciers continue to flow down the mountain opening up new crevasses and collapsing others.  Again, there's no one "route" when climbing or skiing on glaciers - consider them blank canvases for you and your climbing team to "paint" your track on.  Stay within your ability levels and enjoy your opportunity for creativity!  

Wishing everyone a safe and wonderful holiday weekend!  See you in the mountains!