Mountain Happenings

The DC is still holding together and is in fine climbable shape. Give the guide services a shout of thanks for their constant effort of route maintenance.

The exact number of ladders is continually changing. In addition to ladders there are a few short (~5-10') sections where steps have been chopped and hand lines installed.

Stay alert of who and what is above and below you. Early climbing starts are advised to avoid climbing during the temperature peak of the day. Remember to shorten your rope interval when going through Cathedral Gap and on the Cleaver to minimize human triggered rock fall.

The objective hazards of rock and ice fall are still very prominent. Areas of particular concern are the traverse below the Ingraham ice fall at the bottom of the DC and the traverse from the top of the DC to Camp Comfort/across the Ingraham.

The weather is starting to cool bringing with it some scattered showers and variable visibility. Check the weather and get a good forecast before you head out. As a result of the cooling temperatures the snow and ice has firmed considerably, creating potential for long slides in the event of a fall that is not arrested.

If you are planning on climbing the Kautz (or anywhere) please be a responsible patron and steward of the mountain and clean up after your team, or else.

Stay smart and climb on!