Friday, August 11, 2006

Watch the crevasse crossings...

The weather looks promising for the weekend. There is very little news to report in what is most thankfully becoming a very, very quiet summer.

On the safety side of things, climbers should be prepared for dangerous crevasse crossings. We have reports of dicey bridges on the Emmons, DC, and Kautz routes. Avoiding a catastrophic crevasse fall could mean finding an alternative route around the hazard, or using protection and belays. Most teams simply follow the established boot path, which doesn't always offer the safest or best climbing line. We often find that the glaciers and crevasses change rapidly after weeks of sun and heat. So be prepared to deviate from the boot track if you want to safely reach the summit...and return!